Emission Test Question

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Kilgore Trout

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Oct 18, 2008
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I have the yellow "check engine" light on in my car dashboard and am due for the emission test.

Am I allowed to take the test with the yellow 'check engine' light on or do I have to go to a mechanic to get it cleared before I'm allowed to take the test.
The car drives fine and I see nothing wrong with the engine. Possibly needs oxygen sensor or something so I'm not very worried about it. The check engine light has been on for about 3 months.

Thanks for any info.
 
With the check engine light on you will likely fail and be required to remedy the situation.
Also keep in mind it won't be quick. If you repair the problem, say O2 sensor, you will need to 'cycle' the car sensors which means driving city, highway, sitting overnight etc. before you can retest. In other words you will have to fix it day 1 then retest day 2.
There is a chance it will pass though.
 
Kilgore Trout said:
I have the yellow "check engine" light on in my car dashboard and am due for the emission test.

Am I allowed to take the test with the yellow 'check engine' light on or do I have to go to a mechanic to get it cleared before I'm allowed to take the test.
The car drives fine and I see nothing wrong with the engine. Possibly needs oxygen sensor or something so I'm not very worried about it. The check engine light has been on for about 3 months.

Thanks for any info.
Click to expand...

You'll have to clear it
 
Okay, thanks for all that.
 
it doesn't have to be cleared. My car had the same problem and they fixed one thing for about $300 and said the light would still be on and the next time I had to have the emissions test it would cost $500 to get the ligth off- something to do with the emissions but they weren't money grabbers about it. It was A-1 Auto tech on Don Mills rd.
 
If the light is on they wont even test it. They even test the light to make sure that you didnt take the bulb out.
 
Taking out the bulb showing check engine will do you no good at all! Emissions testing is now a process of reading the computer . As the engine runs through its cycles each parameter reads as ready/ not ready . If you get someone to clear the codes and you shut off the check engine light too many things will read not ready and it will fail. Same thing if you disconnect the battery and the computer resets and you get it checked it will fail for the same reason. If you take it to be tested and it fails and you are willing to spend 300 towards repair work it will get a conditional pass. The shops know it won't pass with the light on so they won't waste your time testing it
 
If I go to the mechanic on Monday and the computer code says get a new catalytic converter and then get it installed; then, does the money I spent on Monday count to a conditional pass in the unlikely event that I fail on Tuesday at the emissions center?
Or does money count only after you fail at emissions center.
 
Kilgore Trout said:
If I go to the mechanic on Monday and the computer code says get a new catalytic converter and then get it installed; then, does the money I spent on Monday count to a conditional pass in the unlikely event that I fail on Tuesday at the emissions center?
Or does money count only after you fail at emissions center.
Click to expand...

Only after your emission test..
step 1...e-test done..pass..ok...fail...if they havent pinpointed the reason a secondary test is done..cost $150.....after that another e-test is done..at 1/2 price..$17
Then it will tell you what needs to be done and the cost......by law...you only have to spend upto $450.00...if the cost is over that to fix it...you have the option of fixing it or declining it...and you will get a conditional pass good for 1 year( its actuaslly 2 cus you only need an e-test every 2 years).

The S/O..just went thru it...
she was at $235.00 but the cost to fix the issue would have taken it to $481.00....so we declined it and got the conditional..
All testing is included in the $450 threshhold...BTW
 
thumper18474 said:
Only after your emission test..
step 1...e-test done..pass..ok...fail...if they havent pinpointed the reason a secondary test is done..cost $150.....after that another e-test is done..at 1/2 price..$17
Then it will tell you what needs to be done and the cost......by law...you only have to spend upto $450.00...if the cost is over that to fix it...you have the option of fixing it or declining it...and you will get a conditional pass good for 1 year( its actuaslly 2 cus you only need an e-test every 2 years).

The S/O..just went thru it...
she was at $235.00 but the cost to fix the issue would have taken it to $481.00....so we declined it and got the conditional..
All testing is included in the $450 threshhold...BTW
Click to expand...

As Thump says....... Get the test done b4 the needed work. I had to do mine last year and I told the mechanic jokingly - I don't care whats wrong so long as it's more than $450.
One thing on the conditional pass is that you cannot sell the vehicle with a conditional pass.
 
The amount of misinformation in this thread is mind boggling

What car is this? Depending on car make/model i can tell you how to decipher your check engine light yourself and how to reset it without ever giving a penny to a mechanic.

BTW you can make 99% of cars with a check engine light get a conditional pass for under $60, legally
 
Why don't you provide us with an example - pick the car make/model that's easiest for you and walk us through it.
 
HEYHEY said:
The amount of misinformation in this thread is mind boggling

What car is this? Depending on car make/model i can tell you how to decipher your check engine light yourself and how to reset it without ever giving a penny to a mechanic.

BTW you can make 99% of cars with a check engine light get a conditional pass for under $60, legally
Click to expand...

Yes please tell us more
 
A check engine light does not necessarily mean that there is something expensive which needs to be repaired in the emission control system. In some cars simply failing to tighten the fuel filler cap will cause a check engine light. Other times they can't ever find what caused it. It is a good idea to have it checked though.
 
The check engine light can indicate so many different problems. If it's a problem with a sensor, then yes, you're likely to fail an E-test. But if it's a fuel-line pressure warning because you didn't put your gas cap on all the way, it probably won't matter.

Cars today are marvels of technology where computers control everything. The computer's job is to keep the car moving and warn you when something is abnormal. It doesn't have to be broken, just abnormal. In some cases, the light is on and it means you're not getting optimum gas mileage such is if you didn't put the gas cap on the way. On the other hand, if it's on because the O2 sensor has failed, the computer needs to compensate without knowing and that means the engine likely won't be running the optimal fuel/air mixture and your emissions will suffer as a result. It depends on the cause.

I'm sure some places would see the light and say "I won't test it. Fix the light first." That's not unreasonable. But some places won't care. If you want to pay for a test that has more than a 50% chance of failing, that's your business. I find places that don't charge for the retest if you get repairs done at their shop generally won't test with a check engine light on. Which makes sense. It's their time and money they're risking. But the places that would charge you for both tests regardless just won't care.

I get a friend to do mine. The one time I did have a light on, he checked the code first to see what it was, then went ahead and did the test and smacked me upside the head for not tightening my gas cap. As an aside, I don't go to full service gas stations anymore.
 
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