Electrical Wall Outlet Dead

[Keebler Elf]

On a related note, I have a wall plug with two outlets and one of them isn't working. I used a little plug tester I have and one of the outlets appears dead.

Thoughts on what it could be? (since the second outlet works fine)

 

[papasmerf]

On a related note, I have a wall plug with two outlets and one of them isn't working. I used a little plug tester I have and one of the outlets appears dead.

Thoughts on what it could be? (since the second outlet works fine)

It is a SWITCHED OUTLET

 

[Cycleguy007]

So you have a new hairstyle now Rock?

 

[HAMSTER INSPECTOR]

On a related note, I have a wall plug with two outlets and one of them isn't working. I used a little plug tester I have and one of the outlets appears dead.

Thoughts on what it could be? (since the second outlet works fine)

The contacts inside may have become loose, a new outlet is under $2.

 

[papasmerf]

The contacts inside may have become loose, a new outlet is under $2.

You will blow up the electrical panel if it is a switched outlet and are on different phases.

Use your eyes and knowledge to determine the problem.

DON'T FUCK WITH ELECTRIC IF YOU HAVE LITTLE KNOWLEDGE


YOU WILL KILL SOMEONE

 

[gar]

This thread is scary. The advice given here is well intended but always exercise caution when dealing with electricity. When the OP states he tried to pry off the CO 2 detector with a screwdriver, it illustrated a serious lack of knowledge.
My advice, check the circuit breaker, look for GFI's. If those don't work call an electrician.

 

[papasmerf]

This thread is scary. The advice given here is well intended but always exercise caution when dealing with electricity. When the OP states he tried to pry off the CO 2 detector with a screwdriver, it illustrated a serious lack of knowledge.
My advice, check the circuit breaker, look for GFI's. If those don't work call an electrician.

you give the same advice I did

But then again I used to make my living wiring houses.

 

[oldjones]

And it would most likely be a CO detector, and labelled as such, not a CO₂ detector.

People who don't read accurately should not be taking instructions from unlicensed folks—no matter how helpful, well intended and accurate—over the internet about mechanisms that deal fire and death.

 

[t_dot]

if you have an arc fault interrupter in your breaker box check that. was this receptacle in a bedroom?

 

[Rockslinger]

Hi guys, thanks for your posts. Here is some additional info which, hopefully, will also answer questions raised so far.

1) The dead receptacle is in the furnace room in the finished basement. (The furnace is on a different circuit and is working fine.) There are a black, white and ground wires coming out of the box, so it is an "end of the run" receptacle. Please note that I did replace the old receptacle so there is a new one in its place now (still not working). I tested the bare black and white wires with a tester and there is no current.

2) The circuit breaker is labelled as a "twin unit". Two single 15Amp switches in the same unit. Each switch operates independently. The bottom switch is currently turned off as it is for a baseboard heater in another room which is not currently in use. Based on my old notes, it appears this receptacle is on the top switch of the twin circuit breaker.

When I turn the upper switch off, there are 5 ceiling lights and another wall receptacle in the basement bathroom that also shut off. The bathroom receptacle does not have "set and reset" buttons and neither does the dead receptacle. The bathroom receptacle is working fine, both upper and lower outlets.

3) Similar to Keebler's problem, there was already a pre-existing problem before the incident last night. The upper outlet on the now dead receptacle was not working so the old CO detector was plugged into the lower outlet.

For some unknown reason, the male double prongs on the old CO detector was wedged in so tightly into the female outlet that I could not remove by hand, hence the SCREWDRIVER. (Rock: You should have turned the circuit breaker off at this point.)

The SCREWDRIVER popped the CO detector off the receptacle and there was a brief small flash (spark?) at the same time. Everything else was working normal (and is still working normal from what I can see) and the circuit breaker did not trip.

 

[tboy]

This might seem like a no brainer but:

does your circuit tester work? Have you tried it on a known energized circuit/outlet?

Is it one of those pen types that chirp when there's current present? or is it a hand held type with two leads and a meter with a needle?

Is the box surface mounted or recessed into the wall? (many furnace rooms are not drywalled).

If it is surface mount, can you trace the cable back to the last connection or box?

 

[Rockslinger]

does your circuit tester work? Have you tried it on a known energized circuit/outlet?

I think I have what is a voltage tester. It has two prongs and a small bulb. I connect one prong to the black wire and the other prong to the white wire and the bulb is suppose to light (it does not in this case).

Is it one of those pen types that chirp when there's current present? or is it a hand held type with two leads and a meter with a needle?

It is a small hand held unit with two prongs and a bulb. No chirp and no meter with a needle but the bulb is suppose to light if there is current.

Is the box surface mounted or recessed into the wall? (many furnace rooms are not drywalled).

The box is recessed into a drywall. The receptacle is mounted inside the box and the cover plate is virtually flat against the drywall.

If it is surface mount, can you trace the cable back to the last connection or box?

Since it is recessed into a drywall, I cannot trace the path of the cable but the main circuit breaker box is also in the same furnace room about 12 feet away on the opposite wall (inside side of the exterior wall). This receptacle is at the "end of the run" as I see only 1 black, 1 white and 1 ground wire.

 

[great bear]

you give the same advice I did

But then again I used to make my living wiring houses.

Your knowledge of electricity shocks me!

 

[tboy]

ok rock, did you test the tester to see if the bulb actually works?

You can check it on a known "good" outlet......

 

[doggee_01]

PLEASE PLEASE take the only good piece of advice on here CALL A QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN

 

[Rockslinger]

ok rock, did you test the tester to see if the bulb actually works?

Yup, the bulb lit up when I plugged the tester into a known good receptacle.

The old CO detector also still works as it is now plugged into another receptacle and the green light is on and when I press the test button the alarm sounds (beep, beep) and red light lights up.

This receptacle had a pre-existing problem in that the upper outlet stopped working several years ago and I had to plug the old CO detector in the lower outlet. Now neither outlets work even though I installed a new receptacle last night. The tester also shows no current when connected to the bare ends of the black and white wires in the box.

I ran into a similar problem with another receptacle a few years ago. Before I got central air, I had this old Chrysler window room a/c plugged into a regular room receptacle. The current drawn by this a/c actually melted the wires and/or the receptacle. I can't remember exactly how but I fixed this problem myself and that receptable has been working fine (of course, no room a/c plugged into it).

 

[Moraff]

Since it is recessed into a drywall, I cannot trace the path of the cable but the main circuit breaker box is also in the same furnace room about 12 feet away on the opposite wall (inside side of the exterior wall). This receptacle is at the "end of the run" as I see only 1 black, 1 white and 1 ground wire.

Although I know you stated that this outlet is on the same circuit as other things... including some lights. Are you 100% positive tho'? Did you check to see if there were other breakers that may be tripped?

If you're sure it's on the same circuit as the working lights you know the breaker is not damaged (otherwise the lights would be out too). So the problem must lie elsewhere.

If the wires at the outlet look okay, then there's damage somewhere back along the line. Unless you have the device that lets you trace wires through the wall and/or are willing to make lots of holes in your drywall (just because it's at the end of a run and near the breaker box does not in any way mean the wires go straight back there. In fact since there's lights on the supposed circuit they could run all over) your best bet would be to hire an electrician IMO.

 

[Moraff]

It is a SWITCHED OUTLET

Could also be a split outlet. Each receptacle is on a separate circuit. Commonly found in kitchens. That way you don't overload one circuit with too many appliances at once.

 

[james t kirk]

If the circuit is hot leaving the panel and dead at the box, you obviously have a break somewhere in the line. (Duh)

You need to get one of those Holmes on Homes chirping detectors and start following the wire back. It probably goes back to another near by recepticle, or perhaps a light.

When you shorted it (the flash) you damaged something further upstream. Now you simply need to find where. Assuming there are no hidden junction points in your wall or ceiling, it is simply a matter of figuring out where the end run wire in the box in your furnace room feeds from.

My educated guess would be that that is where your problem is. (I.e. the closest other box - recepticle or switch).

I remember one time dealing with a situation where there was an overhead light that shorted and it blew one of the the four way switches further upstream, it was bizzare, but that's what it was.

(Or maybe Stinky's mouse came by for a visit.)

 

[james t kirk]

Could also be a split outlet. Each receptacle is on a separate circuit. Commonly found in kitchens. That way you don't overload one circuit with too many appliances at once.

No, the OP stated that there were only 3 wires in the box.

Black
White
Ground.

A split would have a red wire.