anyone ever rust proofed their car? i'm thinking about doing it to my car. anyone know a good place and how much is this service? thanks.
rust proofing
- Thread starter keepmovingforward
- Start date
Waste of money.
All you do is void your factory corrosion warrantee.
Today's steel alloys and galvanizing, and electrostatic primers are more than advanced enough to protect your car from the winter.
All you do is void your factory corrosion warrantee.
Today's steel alloys and galvanizing, and electrostatic primers are more than advanced enough to protect your car from the winter.
Do it yourself for $10 - $12 a year.
The rustproof places are spraying oil into the areas that are likely to rust. The fenders and doors. You can buy a can of Rustcheck at Canadian Tire and do pretty much what they will do for you. At the rustproofing places you are pretty much paying for labour, overhead, and advertising. The product is quite cheap. That is why they will give you more than you realy need so that you will be happy when it dripps out all over your driveway. Just spray into the doors from the bottom drain holes in a sweeping patern. The front fenders can be sprayed from the inside of the engine compartment, new cars now all have vent slots to access the inside of the front fender. The back fenders are pretty much sealed an rubber coated on recent model cars and do not require rustproffing.The best time to do it is in October, the oil will stick better in cooler weather. I sprayed my car last year and with the warmer weather the oil will get thin and drip out.
The rustproof places are spraying oil into the areas that are likely to rust. The fenders and doors. You can buy a can of Rustcheck at Canadian Tire and do pretty much what they will do for you. At the rustproofing places you are pretty much paying for labour, overhead, and advertising. The product is quite cheap. That is why they will give you more than you realy need so that you will be happy when it dripps out all over your driveway. Just spray into the doors from the bottom drain holes in a sweeping patern. The front fenders can be sprayed from the inside of the engine compartment, new cars now all have vent slots to access the inside of the front fender. The back fenders are pretty much sealed an rubber coated on recent model cars and do not require rustproffing.The best time to do it is in October, the oil will stick better in cooler weather. I sprayed my car last year and with the warmer weather the oil will get thin and drip out.
The dealerships don't even do it on their own cars (at cost, obviously) when they are leasing them out.
Quite sure that is not the case although new car dealers will often say so. Reason, they want to do the work themselves. A good money maker for them.
I did my homework on this last year and it does not void the warranty - for Toyotas and Hondas.
Best thing to do is call the warranty people of the manufacturer you're thinking of buying from - aka - head office.
I'm a car guy. Not by trade, but by hobby. Been laying under cars, fixing cars, rebuilding cars, restoring cars, showing cars since I was 8 years old. I love cars.
Undercoating - all undercoating is a scam. Especially with modern cars.
All you're doing is wasting your money and spraying goo all over your car that will promote corrosion - the asphalt stuff at least. It hardens, cracks along stress points, traps dirt, traps moisture actually making it worse. They still drill holes in doors and panels and spray that shit around blind. Fucking up window mechanisms, making working on the car a nightmare, fucking up electrical - you name it.
Bad news.
The best thing you can do for your car to pevent corrosion is keep it clean and dry.
The best primers for inhibiting corrosion are zinc based - eg. zinc chromates, etc.
You don't see MTO spraying undercoating on bridges now do you?
Undercoating - all undercoating is a scam. Especially with modern cars.
All you're doing is wasting your money and spraying goo all over your car that will promote corrosion - the asphalt stuff at least. It hardens, cracks along stress points, traps dirt, traps moisture actually making it worse. They still drill holes in doors and panels and spray that shit around blind. Fucking up window mechanisms, making working on the car a nightmare, fucking up electrical - you name it.
Bad news.
The best thing you can do for your car to pevent corrosion is keep it clean and dry.
The best primers for inhibiting corrosion are zinc based - eg. zinc chromates, etc.
You don't see MTO spraying undercoating on bridges now do you?
The only thing that asphalt undercoating is good for (but when you consider all the bad things it does) is sound deadening.
Oh, and it probably adds about 250 pounds to the weight of a full sized vehicle.
Oh, and it probably adds about 250 pounds to the weight of a full sized vehicle.
I recommend you do if you want to keep the vehicle for a long time, don't forget to change the engine oil ever 5 k. Nothing worst than a rust free body and a crappie engine.
I went to a place called OP ( yes thats the name of the place) at 1475 O'CONNER DRIVE they have 2 different types of rust proofing 1 thats an oil and the 2nd is a wax type, the oil type never really dries its a gel and the wax type skins over. if your driving a car I recommend the wax, if you own a truck do the oil type thats cuz of the different terrains each vehicle is most likely going to be driven on. Chances are a truck will be driven on rocky surfaces and the car will not the wax type skins over and if chipped by a rock it may expose the metal, the oil will continue to ooze while driving and be pulled with gravite.
I had my truck done with the oil for 200$ and i have the oil seeping out of the door handles, on the tail lights from the hood and tail gate area. it's kinda nasty looking but hey so what! I just wash it more often.
The guy there did a great job on my truck. His car hoist wasnt able to lift my truck so he did the body first ( I got there around noon on a saturday) he told me to come back at the end of the business day he'll do the frame, reason for this is he actually crawled underneath my truck and when he came out from underneath he was covered in the shit!. He knew this would happen, told me at my 1st visit at lunch he didnt want to work all day cover in oil.
I went to a place called OP ( yes thats the name of the place) at 1475 O'CONNER DRIVE they have 2 different types of rust proofing 1 thats an oil and the 2nd is a wax type, the oil type never really dries its a gel and the wax type skins over. if your driving a car I recommend the wax, if you own a truck do the oil type thats cuz of the different terrains each vehicle is most likely going to be driven on. Chances are a truck will be driven on rocky surfaces and the car will not the wax type skins over and if chipped by a rock it may expose the metal, the oil will continue to ooze while driving and be pulled with gravite.
I had my truck done with the oil for 200$ and i have the oil seeping out of the door handles, on the tail lights from the hood and tail gate area. it's kinda nasty looking but hey so what! I just wash it more often.
The guy there did a great job on my truck. His car hoist wasnt able to lift my truck so he did the body first ( I got there around noon on a saturday) he told me to come back at the end of the business day he'll do the frame, reason for this is he actually crawled underneath my truck and when he came out from underneath he was covered in the shit!. He knew this would happen, told me at my 1st visit at lunch he didnt want to work all day cover in oil.
Most rust occurs on the front fenders and at the bottom of the doors. Spend $10 at CDN Tire for a can of Rustcheck and spray the inside of the fenders and doors yourself. I did my car in 20 minutes last year. I prefer to spray a little at a time so that it does not leak out all over the car.
BTW - Any oil leaking out can be wiped off with degreaser. I bought some at Rona for $10 for 4 liters
BTW - Any oil leaking out can be wiped off with degreaser. I bought some at Rona for $10 for 4 liters
what about the breaks? i noticed a lot car get the rust on the rotors and its ugly as shit. and i notice that on some cars they dont. what are they doing different to avoid rust in the break area?
Rotors are rusting because some car companies are using cheap crappy all steel rotors with no nickel, made in RED China.
Agree that all undercoating is a scam.
Agree that all undercoating is a scam.
Rotors use to cost $90 or more in the past, now they are down to the $25 mark. All rotors rust, the metal has to be soft enough to give you good grip for stopping power. If you harden the metal with nickel you will have a rustless hard metal surface that will not wear and eventualy give you a smooth polished surface from repeated braking and no stopping power. You pay less now for rotors with good stopping power. slight rusting of the metal actually helps to stop you car when braking. These days few people machine their rotors when changing brake pads, it is cheaper to buy new ones. Rotors should last 60k to 80k with no problem.
a new cxar has a manufactures warranty on rust good for 5 years or so, the aftermarket system they try to sell when you by the car is simply an added on price, good for their profit margin, the same as scotchguarding the seats if it makes you feel good go ahead, it won't do anything but lighten up your bank account. Rust on rotors ussually happens when the car has been sitting for a week or so, it is just surface rust and scrubs off when you hit the binders , if it does not go away get your brakes checked the pads may be dmaged.
Brake rotors are almost always made out of cast iron. There are different cast iron alloys that are used, but I believe that the SAE has a minimum specification.
Cast iron rusts and surface corrosion is normal. The swept area of the disk is kept shiny clean by the braking action. Some really high end brake rotors are made out of carbon composite. (But I doubt that there is anyone on this forum who has that kind of vehicle.)
The price of the rotor is dependent on the quality of the rotor, the size, the weight, the complexity (vented vs. solid, slotted, etc.)
I would be very very hesitant to put a $25.00 Made in China rotor on my car.
For brakes, I want OEM quality or better. Same goes with pads. There is no way a $25.00 made in china rotor meets the OEM spec for a rotor.
Cast iron rusts and surface corrosion is normal. The swept area of the disk is kept shiny clean by the braking action. Some really high end brake rotors are made out of carbon composite. (But I doubt that there is anyone on this forum who has that kind of vehicle.)
The price of the rotor is dependent on the quality of the rotor, the size, the weight, the complexity (vented vs. solid, slotted, etc.)
I would be very very hesitant to put a $25.00 Made in China rotor on my car.
For brakes, I want OEM quality or better. Same goes with pads. There is no way a $25.00 made in china rotor meets the OEM spec for a rotor.
I own a 20 year old car which I bought new in 1990. It was Rust Checked every year for it's first 10 years. For the last 10 I did nothing and it has 155k km on it. I have no rust anywhere except some surface rust on one paint chip on the hood which I've never bothered to repair. The car has an immaculate body and hasn't been treated in a decade.
Rust Check is not without its minor downsides. It must be applied every year to keep their warranty. It will drip a lot of oil for a day or 2 after application so don't park in your driveway. The oil on the bottom of the car mixes with dust and grime to create a greasy substance that makes working on the car dirty and is somewhat difficult to wash off. (It can bee seen on the lowest portion of the rocker panels.)
