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Paint Removal

CUPID

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I am in the midst of some pretty major renovation work and have spent a number of tireless hours trying to remove paint from a radiator. The paint is slowly coming off by being chipped and I have used a heat gun as well as chemical paint remover but the process seems endless.
Any suggestions on a speedier way to remove layers of ugly paint off a great antique rad?
Thanks!
 
CUPID said:
I am in the midst of some pretty major renovation work and have spent a number of tireless hours trying to remove paint from a radiator. The paint is slowly coming off by being chipped and I have used a heat gun as well as chemical paint remover but the process seems endless.
Any suggestions on a speedier way to remove layers of ugly paint off a great antique rad?
Thanks!
Click to expand...

If you can remove and transport it have it either sandbladted or acid dipped.
 
good quality paint stripper is the best, but be sure to cover bare skin, use adequate ventilation & use a mask, gloves & eye protection as it is very caustic.follow the directions fro time to sit etc, use steel wool and scrapers to assist with the removal. it will likely take sevral coats of paint stripper & you'll see the results
 
Gentle Ben said:
Have you ever tried to move a cast iron rad? good luck! LOL
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That I have and suggest a trailer and 3 or 4 friends
 
Gentle Ben said:
and shutting down the heating system and on & on
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Since it is close to winter I am guessing the system might be down. I get the impression this is a restoration and not a paint job
 
I'd think twice about removing it to be worked on elsewhere. If it's an old style radiator there's a good chance it could develop interior cracks during transport, trust me I've seen this happen more then once before, and the radiator is then effectively junk. Jasco is about the best stripper out there, but it is nasty stuff and as GB said should only be used with good ventilation. There are citric based organic strippers, but as much as the idea sounds good they don't really work. Whatever you do, don't resort to sanding or scraping it off, as there is almost certainly lead paint in any layers applied before the 1970's. I've had trim paint in older homes tested that came back 25% lead by weight. Nothing to fool around with, but if you take it off "wet" you should be fine as long as you're careful about clean-up. Which brings to mind, if you are doing a major renovation, do yourself a favor and purchase a lead test for any painted surface you're working on. They're cheap, and can be found at any hardware or paint store.
 
a quick reminder

If it is old then it has lead paint on it. You need far more caution in its removal. And a simple dust mast will not protect you.
 
Hi Jillian!

I've chipped paint off 5 antique radiators. The quickest way is still slow, use the right tools:

  1. large straight blade olfa knife, the infamous 'box cutter', for most radiator fins' surfaces;
  2. normal Xacto knife for extra tight places and fine detail if your rad has it;
  3. lots of blades for both knives;
  4. small 'jewelers' screwdriver and hammer where blades don't work.

Chemicals didn't work very well, not at all on areas of very thick paint, and was extremely messy and difficult to clean in and around radiator fins. Other tools that didn't work at all: wire brushes, all drill attachments, curved blades, sandpaper, files.

Chipped, cleaned, masked and spray painted silver, they now heat up fast, look pretty good and have received unsolicited complements.

I have a few more radiators to do but no more chipping. My experienced analysis and decision is to either cover them up with enclosures (commercial (link) or custom made cost about the same $1,000 for 3 different sized enclosures), or drain, remove and either pay to have them refinished or buy replacements from some place like Habitat or Restore.
 
I can see why it is difficult to remove, hell it's been baking on there for probably 30 yrs.....and it is probably enamel or high heat paint to top it off.

The point about making sure it is off is a good one. Solvents will flash off almost immediately from a hot rad.

Since I have never done this before why couldn't she use a wire brush/wheel attached to her drill? I've stripped lots of metal before using this method and it comes right off. She just has to make sure she vacs up the paint chips afterwards.

BTW: If her dusk mask protects against solvent fumes it should be fine for lead particles.
 
tboy said:
BTW: If her dusk mask protects against solvent fumes it should be fine for lead particles.
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ABSOLUTELY NOT

A dust mask is ment to work with particulants such as sawdust.. Solvents require a different type filter and lead required a HEPPA filter.
 
If you have other options other just a restoration of the rad, you alterternately you can make a rad cover.

I have seen some of them dressed up very ornately to go to with the style of the home.
 
papasmerf said:
ABSOLUTELY NOT

A dust mask is ment to work with particulants such as sawdust.. Solvents require a different type filter and lead required a HEPPA filter.
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Ok, why WOULDN'T her dust mask that also protects against fumes protect against lead particles? The mask would have a 2 stage filter, one for particulants and a carbon filter for fumes which will prevent any smaller particles from getting through?

SPQR said:
If you have other options other just a restoration of the rad, you alterternately you can make a rad cover.

I have seen some of them dressed up very ornately to go to with the style of the home.
Click to expand...

That can be done but be careful of what you make it out of. Due to the heating cooling and subsequent drying if it is made of wood it has to be well sealed and protected. I've seen people try this in my building and it looks like an old rotted POS in a year....
 
tboy said:
Ok, why WOULDN'T her dust mask that also protects against fumes protect against lead particles? The mask would have a 2 stage filter, one for particulants and a carbon filter for fumes which will prevent any smaller particles from getting through?
Click to expand...

A 2 stage filter is not a dust mask.

I would check the MSDS for lead based paints and the MSDS for the solvent being used. To see what the proper PPE is for doing this task.

I realize that most people seed MSDS sheet as a waste of money but the reality is they tell you how to be safe when working wih the product.
 
Papa is right about the lead paint.

In fact, lead can be absorbed through the skin when it is in liquid paint form.

When you use paint strippers, you will create lead paint goo which if it gets on your skin will be absorbed by your skin.

If you insist on stripping it on site, do not get the paint goo on your skin. If you wire wheel it, do not breath the dust.

Lead is one of 13 Regulated Substances in Ontario. The others being asbestos, arsenic, Vinyl Chloride, etc. Lead attacks the central nervous system and is stored in body fat. It does not leave the body once it is present. It can seriously fuck you up. Ask the Romans.

I'd take it out.

Years ago, I outed an old cast iron claw foot tub that was in brutal condition. It was chipped, rusted, had been enameled a few times.

I hired a guy who came to the house, picked it up, stripped it, etched it, and enamelled it for 800 bucks.

His result was FANTASTIC.

The tub looked like brand new. (A new iron claw foot is about 5 grand.)

His name was:

Thermo Coating Refinishers
68 Holborne Ave.
Toronto
416-421-1468

And yes, the tub weighed a ton. It took 4 guys to lift it down the stairs to the front lawn where this guy would pick it up. (He wouldn't remove it.)

Anyway, 10 years later, the tub still looks as good as the day he dropped it off.

I highly recommend him - if he's still in business.

Edit:

I just did a 411 on Thermo Coating:

They are listed, but a different number:

Thermo Coating Refinishers Ltd
Address : ON
Telephone : 416-778-4672
Category : Bathtub Refinishing & Repairing
Directory : Toronto Central - East


This will solve your problem...
 
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tboy said:
Ok, why WOULDN'T her dust mask that also protects against fumes protect against lead particles? The mask would have a 2 stage filter, one for particulants and a carbon filter for fumes which will prevent any smaller particles from getting through?
Click to expand...
Because the dust goes everywhere and would be almost impossible to clean up completely. A couple thousand parts per million of lead in paint is considered safe to work on. As I said, I've had tests come back that were anywhere from 100,000 to over 200,000 parts per million, and this is not at all unusual. White lead was used not only to add durability, but was also used as the pigment base that gave paint it's opacity, (now days Titanium Dioxide is used instead, oddly enough the same thing used in some non-dairy creamers to give them their "whiteness"). Every year people wind up contaminating whole houses during remodel because they have no clue what they're dealing with. Always do a test first.
 
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