A post I DM'ed that I thought a wider audience might like:
Youtube has some examples.
I usually just reuse the cone.
New foam can be bought at electronic shops like the row of them on Matheson near Dixie out in Sauga.
Or Amazon, likely.
I do all of this with speaker out of the cabinet.
Some might fix them with cabinet on its back, but that is too hard for me.
First step is measure resistance of voice coil with ohm meter.
Cone may click a bit with the test DC voltage applied - thats ok.
If you hear scraping, be cautious.
Overheating from hard use can cause winding glue to come undone and that is beyond my means to fix.
Can sniff this out with the smell with your nose to - hot plastic smell left overs.
If the 'spider' - the pleated material that holds the tapered back of the cone in place is torn
Game over.
I usually work dust cover off.
Use acetone or rubbing alcohol dabbed on glue with a damp q tip bit by bit
Let is sit a bit.
Test try to see if glue is softening
Then using a pointy xacto etc knife try to pull up the dust cover up without tearing the cone.
If it wont come up I very gingerly saw it apart next to the existing glue.
Worst come to worst make a new one from file folder cardboard sharpie coilured black.
But if arched, flat cover will not sound the same.
Once dust cover is off, take copy paper strip and coil it and trial fit it to fill the gap coil to inner magnet piece.
Two turns is sometimes needed.
Goal here is to keep this space centred while you are working on the foam.
Now coil is stabilized.
Pry paper/carboard ring that usually is over the outside edge of the dead foam.
I do this carefully and always aim to reuse this.
Now work to mechanically gently pull away last of dead foam surround. On the metal outer can scrape it away.
On the cone dabs of solvent and rub with fingers until faom turns to a wadded ball.
Repeat many times.
Yes you fingers get stained.
Once all foam crap is gone, lay down contact cement on mating surfaces and let it dry.
Set new foam centred as best you can.
I sometimes use wax paper slips to hold bits apart while I center them, then pull slip and push rim down one bit at a time.
Once rim is down slowly bit by bit alternating sides push new foam to cone.
Reglue paper surround back on
Remove paper shims and pray no scraping with new foam in place.
Glue down dust cap.
If sawed out, I tack it back with smoothed on black rubber gasket maker from CTC.
Clean your hands with solvent then use hand cream to put skin oils back you just disolved away..
When I pull the speaker to this fix the foam I usually look at the crossover and the size of bipolar capacitors.
They change value as they age.
So while things are apart solder new ones in if you have that skill.
This can brighten a dull tweater response.
Youtube has some examples.
I usually just reuse the cone.
New foam can be bought at electronic shops like the row of them on Matheson near Dixie out in Sauga.
Or Amazon, likely.
I do all of this with speaker out of the cabinet.
Some might fix them with cabinet on its back, but that is too hard for me.
First step is measure resistance of voice coil with ohm meter.
Cone may click a bit with the test DC voltage applied - thats ok.
If you hear scraping, be cautious.
Overheating from hard use can cause winding glue to come undone and that is beyond my means to fix.
Can sniff this out with the smell with your nose to - hot plastic smell left overs.
If the 'spider' - the pleated material that holds the tapered back of the cone in place is torn
Game over.
I usually work dust cover off.
Use acetone or rubbing alcohol dabbed on glue with a damp q tip bit by bit
Let is sit a bit.
Test try to see if glue is softening
Then using a pointy xacto etc knife try to pull up the dust cover up without tearing the cone.
If it wont come up I very gingerly saw it apart next to the existing glue.
Worst come to worst make a new one from file folder cardboard sharpie coilured black.
But if arched, flat cover will not sound the same.
Once dust cover is off, take copy paper strip and coil it and trial fit it to fill the gap coil to inner magnet piece.
Two turns is sometimes needed.
Goal here is to keep this space centred while you are working on the foam.
Now coil is stabilized.
Pry paper/carboard ring that usually is over the outside edge of the dead foam.
I do this carefully and always aim to reuse this.
Now work to mechanically gently pull away last of dead foam surround. On the metal outer can scrape it away.
On the cone dabs of solvent and rub with fingers until faom turns to a wadded ball.
Repeat many times.
Yes you fingers get stained.
Once all foam crap is gone, lay down contact cement on mating surfaces and let it dry.
Set new foam centred as best you can.
I sometimes use wax paper slips to hold bits apart while I center them, then pull slip and push rim down one bit at a time.
Once rim is down slowly bit by bit alternating sides push new foam to cone.
Reglue paper surround back on
Remove paper shims and pray no scraping with new foam in place.
Glue down dust cap.
If sawed out, I tack it back with smoothed on black rubber gasket maker from CTC.
Clean your hands with solvent then use hand cream to put skin oils back you just disolved away..
When I pull the speaker to this fix the foam I usually look at the crossover and the size of bipolar capacitors.
They change value as they age.
So while things are apart solder new ones in if you have that skill.
This can brighten a dull tweater response.
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