Has anyone converted a chlorine swimming pool to a salt water swimming pool and what was your experience?
I converted about 4 years ago and at the same time added solar pool water heating and solar for the pool pump. Conversion was straight forward, in my case I cut-out the inline chlorinator and installed the salt cells into the same location (which is just before the valve for the pool returns). The control unit was installed on the wall and I wired it along with the new motor and controller and controller for the solar heater. I had 240V already for the original pump and 120V for the lighting and gas heater (which I got rid of) so the wiring wasn't a challenge.
I researched the heck out of the various manufacturers and went with a Zodiac chlorinator. They were well rated, but what made my decision was:
1) The cells only last 4-6 years depending on use and the Zodiac had reasonably priced replacement cells available from several local suppliers as well as Ebay.
2) Zodiac has a west-end repair facility and several local repair techs (can't really risk being without a chlorinator for a few days, manual chlorinating is a hassle). I SHOULD have left the in-line chlorinator installed, just without any pucks.
3) Most competing technologies energize their cells by varying the duty cycle of the voltage on the cells (i.e. 20% setting runs a 20% duty cycle). The Zodiac cells vary the voltage level depending on setting which means the cells make salt continually. According to my studies this means that the Zodiac can maintain a more stable chlorine level as the pool is influenced by the sun throughout the day. I try to keep my pool at 1-2ppm, so stability is important as I want to avoid algae - a really sunny day can potentially bring the ppm to zero very quickly.
Day-to-day operation is a effortless. You need to run the pump ~8-12 hours a day, which I do anyway due to the solar heating and solar pump. I typically run it on the 2 of 5 setting and occasionally crank it up to 3 after a heavy rain, after heavy use or if the water or if the temperature gets above 85-90F. It can be set to superchlorinate (full power for 24 hours) and it automatically reverses voltage on the cells daily to keep them at peak efficiency.
The unit does drive up PH, especially after super chlorinating, I have to add PH Down weekly. I only have to add salt at the beginning of the season - splashing and evaporation doesn't change the level enough that I have to add additional salt.
You can just barely smell the salt while sitting near the pool, but you can definitely taste it. I also notice it when I have my eyes open underwater, but it's not offensive, incorrect PH has much more of an effect. Everyone that I ask that uses my pool like the feel of the salt water and aren't bothered by the taste or the feeling on the eyes.
What are the costs associated with the conversion?
I have a 120,000 litre pool so I had to buy a larger unit. If I recall correctly, I paid $1399 4 years ago, I believe prices have come down. If you can't wire it yourself an electrician will be 2-3 hours work as long as you have 120V near the controller (that you can make use of). The plumbing part is straightforward.
Overall Salt will cost you much more - the system is expensive and every ~5 years you will have to replace the cells.
How much easier is it to maintain?
About the same effort. An in-line chlorinator isn't much work other than having to buy and insert pucks every few days. The salt chlorinator is a bit less work (no pucks), but you still have to test the water, occasionally adjust the output level, still have to add your other chemicals , superchlorinate/shock - the workload is basically the same.
So far the salt hasn't impacted my pool equipment, steel components (ladder or lights), concrete around the pool, lawn or robotic cleaner.