He must have some bodies to bury!Just curious... why do you need a concrete pad for your deck?
If you are in Toronto, check if a solid concrete pad is even legal. I know that it is not legal for a driveway because the water cannot drain into the ground.a concrete pad for my backyard deck 25X40ft.
I am in markham, where i want it to put it will be adjacent to the bungalow and behind the back of a double door garage will has a garage door leading to the backyard.If you are in Toronto, check if a solid concrete pad is even legal. I know that it is not legal for a driveway because the water cannot drain into the ground.
It's concrete, not cement. Cement is the powder you use to make concrete.Find a good cement finisher. Fiber reinforcing is good but if it floats to the surface, it might impede the finish (depending what kind of finish you want).
No offense, but 35 MPa with 15M rebar is very large overkill for a concrete pad on grade. You could span between houses and drive a car on this!You want to use 35 MPA concrete with a 7% air entrainment with a slump of 75 mm.
Use 15 M rebar at 300 mm c/c located in the centre of the slab (hold it off the ground with concrete bricks) in both directions to control cracking.
Yeah, maybe if I was gonna park a rather large truck and loaded trailer ( thinking Kenworth, Peterbuilt, WesternStar......)You want to use 35 MPA concrete with a 7% air entrainment with a slump of 75 mm.
Slab should be 150 mm thick and poured on top of a free draining material - like Granular A. If clay is present under the Granular, install weeping drains (holes down) below the granular layer to provide drainage.
Use 15 M rebar at 300 mm c/c located in the centre of the slab (hold it off the ground with concrete bricks) in both directions to control cracking.
Sawcut the slab down the centre, then in quarter panels in the other direction once the concrete has set up (usually within 12 hours) to control cracking (maybe).
Water cure the slab for 7 days (i.e. keep it CONTINUOUSLY soaking wet) to aid in hydration and to control shrinkage cracks (maybe)
Seal the sawcuts with a duoflex sealer once the curing is complete.
I'll agree to the wire mesh but speaking from experience I would use 25mpa.No offense, but 35 MPa with 15M rebar is very large overkill for a concrete pad on grade. You could span between houses and drive a car on this!
Save some money and use 20 MPa with wire mesh.
I agree, mesh is sufficient and saves times and money, but James kirk is right on with his other suggestions.No offense, but 35 MPa with 15M rebar is very large overkill for a concrete pad on grade. You could span between houses and drive a car on this!
Save some money and use 20 MPa with wire mesh.
Negative.No offense, but 35 MPa with 15M rebar is very large overkill for a concrete pad on grade. You could span between houses and drive a car on this!
Save some money and use 20 MPa with wire mesh.
100 mm slump is the maximum allowed. I know hacks like to have the concrete run like soup cause it’s nice and easy to work with, however, typical specs for the pros are 75 mm +/- 25 mm. (This is an OPSS spec for even sidewalk.)Yeah, maybe if I was gonna park a rather large truck and loaded trailer ( thinking Kenworth, Peterbuilt, WesternStar......)
35mpa with 7% air at a 3" slump that stuff would barely roll down the chutes and depending on mother nature would
likely kill the poor bastard that has to work it.
15m rebar set on a 12" grid , only things I have put that much steelin or more are 9' high basement walls and retaining walls,
driveways and garage floors get light wire mesh.
Sawcut is the one thing you got right.
Water curing again depends on what mother nature is giving you.
Sealing the sawcuts uncalled for.
I'll agree to the wire mesh but speaking from experience I would use 25mpa.
It is best not to place re-bar under the location of the proposed saw cut if you want to prevent/minimize cracks. The goal is to create a line of weakness where you want the slab to crack. The current theory is to toss the rebar in the garbage and use fibremesh. Never use green rebar.You want to use 35 MPA concrete with a 7% air entrainment with a slump of 75 mm.
Slab should be 150 mm thick and poured on top of a free draining material - like Granular A. If clay is present under the Granular, install weeping drains (holes down) below the granular layer to provide drainage.
Use 15 M rebar at 300 mm c/c located in the centre of the slab (hold it off the ground with concrete bricks) in both directions to control cracking.
Sawcut the slab down the centre, then in quarter panels in the other direction once the concrete has set up (usually within 12 hours) to control cracking (maybe).
Water cure the slab for 7 days (i.e. keep it CONTINUOUSLY soaking wet) to aid in hydration and to control shrinkage cracks (maybe)
Seal the sawcuts with a duoflex sealer once the curing is complete.