Ahh, fair enough then. I found the middle trim CX-50 to be alright, but decidedly less fun than the non-turbo CX-30 (which is probably too small for your needs).
Used compact/mid-sized SUV's
- Thread starter K Douglas
- Start date
I didn't even know there was a CX-30 until I saw one on the road this morning. I dug the styling but yes it was too small.
My Nissan gave me no issues whatsoever and I am driving it for more than five years.
I think I'm leading towards the RDX its definitely the most powerful in this segment. Up until 2019 it was a 3.5L V6 churning out 270HIP. Very impressed with the test drive.
I also test drove a 2018 NX200t, its a 4 cylinder turbo charged engine producing 235HP. It drives nice but a bit of a lag in the turbo when reaching higher speeds. I do like the styling more than the Acura though.
I also test drove a 2018 NX200t, its a 4 cylinder turbo charged engine producing 235HP. It drives nice but a bit of a lag in the turbo when reaching higher speeds. I do like the styling more than the Acura though.
If you want horsepower, take a look at the 2020 GMC Terrain Denali. 252 hp, which is well engineered. Good looking vehicle that is ageing well. 9 speed transmission. Heated seats and steering wheel.
You can also get Chevrolet Equinox's with the 252hp engine, but usually they are not as well optioned.
You can also get Chevrolet Equinox's with the 252hp engine, but usually they are not as well optioned.
I tested Regular vs Premium in my last BMW X5 3.0 ltr. As you said, the knock sensor willretard tge timing as required without even noticing anything.That's correct, just giving him options.
While premium gas is "recommended" on many vehicles, it's not always "required."
Some cars that need premium need at least 91 octane, and others may require at least 93 octane. If the owner's manual recommends premium gas instead of requiring it, you can typically operate the vehicle safely on regular gas.
That's because modern cars have knock sensors that detects pre-ignition and simply retards the ignition to prevent damaging the pistons. Many people needlessly put way more expensive premium gas in their cars when it's not really required.
Published vehicle torque and HP values are based on using a specific octane. If you want your car to achieve those numbers, you want to use the fuel the manufacturer used during testing. For the most part, people aren't going to notice the difference between fuels, so you can often use regular fuel without any problem.
No problems but the reduced gas mileage from Premium to Regular was exactly the same cost per mile when fuel consumption and price per litre were calculated. This is completely attributable to the increased efficiency of more advanced timing on the higher compression engine. I don’t drive aggressively but cruise at 120 kph on the highway.
So I just went back to buying Premium.
of course if your car doesn’t mention any need to use Premium, it means it is a lower compression design and does not require the increased anti-knock benefit of higher octane fuel. It does NOTHING in a low compression engine and is a complete waste of money.
Hey Butch!f you man
I have a Subaru and LOVE it !!!
and I hate granola
I was a devoted Infiniti guy, made the change last year and I'm never going back
I would stay away from any turbo engines
Subies certainly have a strong cult-like following. Interesting and unique approach to engineering. No doubt their AWD is very effective. However, past 10 years, they can drop off a cliif in terms of requiring extensive front end, transmission and AWD system repairs. And they are a mofo to repair WHEN the underside gets rusty. The well known oil leaking through the spark plug boots spraying motor oil doesn’t help stop the rust on the front end and electrical connections under the car. I HIGHLY recommend you invest in annual, or at least biannual fluid-type rustproofing. “ Fluid Film” is a great product but hard to find a good applicator outside of Crappy Tire
Second choice would be Krown. I was a die hard Rust Check advocate but the lanolin based Fluid Film is the best, then Krown, then Rust Check. NEVER the asphalt based or thick coating type rustproofing the dealer rapes you for.
Most important is tge guy doing the work. Do your research on reviews.
And it’s never too late to start. For approximately $100 a year it is fantastic investment. In addition to rust protection, it drastically reduces possible electrical gremlins. If you ever had to replace (or AVOID replacing!) a glitchy neutral safety interlock start switch underneath the car… you will NEVER not have your Subaru fluid rust protected!
on that note, I don’t think a Subaru Forester over 10 years old is a wise used SUV choice. There is a reason that Subaru dealers find that the ten year mark is when most Subies get traded in. The maintenance and repairs skyrocket around that point. The Japanese don’t take salted roads too seriously!
Congratulations. Good luck in picking up Lesbians.I ended up buying the NX200t just over 100,000 km. F-Sport trim. Got a better deal on it than the RDX and it should be a bit better on gas being a 4 cylinder. My very first Lexus. Thanks again for everyone's input
