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Tires
- Thread starter Cobster
- Start date
http://www.1010tires.com/tech.asp?type=tires
Scroll down until you the see section "Uniform Tire Quality Grading"
Scroll down until you the see section "Uniform Tire Quality Grading"
Cobster said:Buddy mechanic told me to get temperature A, traction A tires.
Currently have temp. A, traction B - worn fairly thin now - only summers.
What does traction B all about?
In general your mechanic is right, it's always best to have equipment on your vehicle which exceeds the demands you're likely to place on it - just in case.
If I remember right, you have a 90's Civic. A "B" tire is OK - there are plenty of good T & V rated tire choices in the 185 & 195 width ('14 & '15 sizes) at reasonable prices. BFG Traction T/A & Yokohama AVID come to mind, and last week one retailer was clearing out 14 inch Bridgestone Potenza RE910's at very low prices. All these are superior to what the car came with.
But if you drive hard or make long trips on the highway, it's nice to have the extra piece of mind of the "H" rated version of the above, or a Hankook Ventus HRII, again fairly reasonably priced but still $20-$35 extra per tire.
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For those who don't do links
A must read from 1010Tires.com:
I'm willing to bet that 90% of tire failure and rapid wear is 100% owner's fault (assuming they've even chosen adequate tires for the vehicle in the first place...).
I think that bi-weekly recommendation is probably based on regular steel wheels. Many cars today are bought with Aluminium rims which generally cause tires to loose pressure sooner, for what ever reason. Even more so with the cheaper aftermarket ones. If you have Alumimiums, check it once a week.
Check all four wheels - low pressure on one or two will affect the weight distribution of the vehice and send faulty information to the Vehicle Speed Sensor and the Dynamics Control system on late model cars.
A must read from 1010Tires.com:
Always check your air pressure and make adjustments when the tires are cold (tires have not been driven for 2 hours). Air pressure should be checked bi-weekly at the very least. This is important because as outside temperatures change, so does tire air pressure. A 10 degree drop in temperature can reduce tire pressure by 1psi.
I'm willing to bet that 90% of tire failure and rapid wear is 100% owner's fault (assuming they've even chosen adequate tires for the vehicle in the first place...).
I think that bi-weekly recommendation is probably based on regular steel wheels. Many cars today are bought with Aluminium rims which generally cause tires to loose pressure sooner, for what ever reason. Even more so with the cheaper aftermarket ones. If you have Alumimiums, check it once a week.
Check all four wheels - low pressure on one or two will affect the weight distribution of the vehice and send faulty information to the Vehicle Speed Sensor and the Dynamics Control system on late model cars.
From consumersearch.com:
While it's unlikely that most people will ever cruise at 114 mph, it is very possible they will sometimes make highway trips much longer than 30 minutes and under greater load and less favourable conditions than the government tests - so these specifications are not as exotic and redundant as they appear at first glance.
It's also worth noting that in REAL WORLD conditions, tires often fail to fully live up to their UTQG rating achieved in the lab & test tracks in both wear and temperature, so it's desireable to to leave a little extra margin.
From 1010Tires.com:Analysts at Consumer Reports magazine say that many people are gravitating to high-performance tires in part because of their better handling and heat resistance. Federal investigations cited heat buildup as a contributing factor in the 270 deaths and 800 injuries tied to tire failures of Firestone tires back in 2000. High-performance tires...get better grip, can brake and corner more precisely, and won't get as hot on long highway trips in warm weather.
Temperature ratings are determined by running tires on an indoor roadwheel test under specified conditions. Successive 30 minute runs are made in 5mph increments starting at 75mph and continuing until the tires fails. Tires with an A rating must withstand at least 114mph, B at least 99mph, and C at least 85mph. These measurements indicate the tire's ability to sustain high temperatures which often cause tires to wear away quickly or in extreme conditions lead to sudden tire failure.
While it's unlikely that most people will ever cruise at 114 mph, it is very possible they will sometimes make highway trips much longer than 30 minutes and under greater load and less favourable conditions than the government tests - so these specifications are not as exotic and redundant as they appear at first glance.
It's also worth noting that in REAL WORLD conditions, tires often fail to fully live up to their UTQG rating achieved in the lab & test tracks in both wear and temperature, so it's desireable to to leave a little extra margin.
I now stay away from all season.
For summer, for the past several sets, I've been happy with Yokahama and with Cooper. Cooper is a US brand, has little market share, but the tires are every bit as good as the more expensive well known brands IMHO.
For summer, for the past several sets, I've been happy with Yokahama and with Cooper. Cooper is a US brand, has little market share, but the tires are every bit as good as the more expensive well known brands IMHO.
goodtime
Travelaholic
Love the old Goodyear GT & GT+4 family. Great handling & right amount of feedback.asn said:if your going to be keeping the car awhile....i got a set of goodyear triple treds (all seasons) for my car.....had for over 3 years and love em.
http://www.goodyearassurance.com/
asn said:if your going to be keeping the car awhile....i got a set of goodyear triple treds (all seasons) for my car.....had for over 3 years and love em.
http://www.goodyearassurance.com/
same here
