Rustproofing
- Thread starter Cobster
- Start date
In theory your car comes from the factory with 5 year rust through warrantee. If you are at all iffy about that by all means pay the money, personally I would not. The same for the fabric protection
Both rustproofing and any upholstery protection (leather or cloth) are just ways to get you to spend more money. Ultimate rust-proofing on a vehicle is the zinc layer on the steel. If that's broken, nothing else will stop the rust.
As to upholstery protection, it comes protected so that it makes it through shipping in good shape.
Both of these from a dealership are called "nibbles". They got you to buy the vehicle, and now they are nibbling some more cash from you.
As to upholstery protection, it comes protected so that it makes it through shipping in good shape.
Both of these from a dealership are called "nibbles". They got you to buy the vehicle, and now they are nibbling some more cash from you.
From Consumer Reports, 10 common mistakes:
#8. Buying unnecessary extras.
Dealerships often try to sell you extras that boost their profit margin but are a waste of you money. They can include rustproofing, fabric protection, paint protectant, or VIN etching, in which the vehicle identification number is etched onto the windows to deter thieves. Don't accept those unnecessary services and fees. If you see those items on the bill of sale and you haven't agreed to them, simply cross them out and refuse to pay for them. Vehicle bodies are already coated to protect against rust.
#8. Buying unnecessary extras.
Dealerships often try to sell you extras that boost their profit margin but are a waste of you money. They can include rustproofing, fabric protection, paint protectant, or VIN etching, in which the vehicle identification number is etched onto the windows to deter thieves. Don't accept those unnecessary services and fees. If you see those items on the bill of sale and you haven't agreed to them, simply cross them out and refuse to pay for them. Vehicle bodies are already coated to protect against rust.
I own a $50K vehicle - cost me $150 a year to rust proof it. If rustproofing keep rust at bay - prolongs vehicle life (for year 6) then spedning a grand in 6years is cheap.
As factor in how much salt Mayor Tax Me Miller puts on Toronto roads then...
As factor in how much salt Mayor Tax Me Miller puts on Toronto roads then...
Cobster said:
I haven't heard favourable reviews of dealership rustproofing. I know this is expensive too.
I have had a few older cars sprayed by Krown every year, and found it made a marked improvement in the body, structure, and electrical. For about $125 a year, it is pretty good service.
kohan said:
hamermill said:I own a $50K vehicle - cost me $150 a year to rust proof it. If rustproofing keep rust at bay - prolongs vehicle life (for year 6) then spedning a grand in 6years is cheap.
As factor in how much salt Mayor Tax Me Miller puts on Toronto roads then...
I 2nd what these guys are saying. It is a once a year thing and it doesn't cost much..
DIY $10 rustproofing per year.
I do the rust protection and fabric gaurd myself. It will cost you about $10 for a can each year at Canadian Tire. You spray in the rust proofing oil into the holes at the bottom of the doors, sometimes there are even holes with rubber seals on the edge of the door. (do this with the windos up) You can also rustproof your front fenders from inside of the engine compartment through the slits they provide for ventilation. The back fenders these days are realy well protected with a rubberized coating, but spray it if you like.
3M fabric gaurd is also availible at Canadian Tire for about $10 a can, just spray on the fabric when it is new.
Before anyone tells me that I am not doing the same job as the rustproofers, I want to tell you that my buddy the rust proof guy told me that what I am doing is just as effective as what he does. I have seen places offering rustproofing for $149 per treatment. You are paying for mostly labour and profit. Yes they give you twice as much rust proofing oil, but its just so that it leaks out all over the place to show you that the car is sprayed like crazy with more stuff than you need. It just goes to show you what that rustproofing is cost these places. My buddy the rust proof guy showed me a test to prove that what I am doing is effective, he told me to spray the center hub of each wheel on my new car last fall and leave it out in the open to be sprayed by slush, dirt and snow
It came through the winter and after I washed it off with degreaser it looked like new without a trace of rust.
DIY rustproofing only takes 20 minutes, but I prefer to spray only a little in the spring and then just before the winter to use up 1 can a year. After 3 or 4 years there is coating after coating in your car that it is pretty well protected.
I do the rust protection and fabric gaurd myself. It will cost you about $10 for a can each year at Canadian Tire. You spray in the rust proofing oil into the holes at the bottom of the doors, sometimes there are even holes with rubber seals on the edge of the door. (do this with the windos up) You can also rustproof your front fenders from inside of the engine compartment through the slits they provide for ventilation. The back fenders these days are realy well protected with a rubberized coating, but spray it if you like.
3M fabric gaurd is also availible at Canadian Tire for about $10 a can, just spray on the fabric when it is new.
Before anyone tells me that I am not doing the same job as the rustproofers, I want to tell you that my buddy the rust proof guy told me that what I am doing is just as effective as what he does. I have seen places offering rustproofing for $149 per treatment. You are paying for mostly labour and profit. Yes they give you twice as much rust proofing oil, but its just so that it leaks out all over the place to show you that the car is sprayed like crazy with more stuff than you need. It just goes to show you what that rustproofing is cost these places. My buddy the rust proof guy showed me a test to prove that what I am doing is effective, he told me to spray the center hub of each wheel on my new car last fall and leave it out in the open to be sprayed by slush, dirt and snow
It came through the winter and after I washed it off with degreaser it looked like new without a trace of rust.
DIY rustproofing only takes 20 minutes, but I prefer to spray only a little in the spring and then just before the winter to use up 1 can a year. After 3 or 4 years there is coating after coating in your car that it is pretty well protected.
I have a 20 year-old car which was rustproofed by Rust Check every year for its first 10 years. There is not one bit of rust anywhere on the car except for some light surface film on a few stone chips. I am a believer in after market products like Krown and Rust Check. I think that the one-time dealer applied rust proofing is a waste of money.
If my chemistry serves me correct. Oil/oil based products and rubber do not mix well at all. The oil will deteriorate (eat away) the rubber.
There are a lot of suspension components with rubber based bushings, engine mounts and fuel/break lines with rubber seals. Rustproofing chemicals are typically oil based with chemical adhesives and if they are improperly applied - get sprayed onto parts with rubber, you'll have more to worry about then rust.
I'm speaking from experience... I had to replace all my suspension bushings and main drive shaft guibo THEN!! when the engine mounts disintegrated (they are rubber based), the whole friggin engine started to move when the breaks where applied!! That was a nightmare to replace... scary to see your engine being slightly pulled out so they can squeeze new mounts in.
Oh, and as for the doors, if they spray that crap inside the doors, and destroy the sheeting action that occurs - the doors are designed to funnel/sheet water down the inside door and vent it through small water drains at the bottom of the door jams. If they get plugged, water doesn't drain and builds up causing moisture and condensation and rust. Worst is the accumulation of water in the door jam and then it freezes over night (remember what happens to water when it freezes - expands.)
Also, in my case, the undercarriage was sprayed with a tar based sticky substance, and it was applied over the cooling fins of the transmission housing and rear differential (that had cooling fins as well). Now, the transmission and differential weren't properly dissipating heat causing shifting problems and overheating the diff. What a nightmare to get that tar removed. NEVER AGAIN!!
I'm telling you it's a mechanics dreams and an owners nightmare.
My rule of thumb. If it's a car you really like, don't drive it in the winter, and buy a winter-beater.
There are a lot of suspension components with rubber based bushings, engine mounts and fuel/break lines with rubber seals. Rustproofing chemicals are typically oil based with chemical adhesives and if they are improperly applied - get sprayed onto parts with rubber, you'll have more to worry about then rust.
I'm speaking from experience... I had to replace all my suspension bushings and main drive shaft guibo
THEN!! when the engine mounts disintegrated (they are rubber based), the whole friggin engine started to move when the breaks where applied!! That was a nightmare to replace... scary to see your engine being slightly pulled out so they can squeeze new mounts in.Oh, and as for the doors, if they spray that crap inside the doors, and destroy the sheeting action that occurs - the doors are designed to funnel/sheet water down the inside door and vent it through small water drains at the bottom of the door jams. If they get plugged, water doesn't drain and builds up causing moisture and condensation and rust. Worst is the accumulation of water in the door jam and then it freezes over night (remember what happens to water when it freezes - expands.)
Also, in my case, the undercarriage was sprayed with a tar based sticky substance, and it was applied over the cooling fins of the transmission housing and rear differential (that had cooling fins as well). Now, the transmission and differential weren't properly dissipating heat causing shifting problems and overheating the diff. What a nightmare to get that tar removed. NEVER AGAIN!!
I'm telling you it's a mechanics dreams and an owners nightmare.
My rule of thumb. If it's a car you really like, don't drive it in the winter, and buy a winter-beater.
One of the reasons why I prefer European cars to other makes is that the galvanized steel they use is of better quality. That's why all European makes offer the best corrosion perforation warranties at 12 years, unlimited kilometres.
I've seen many Japanese cars that are only five or six years old with rust. In fact, my cousin had a 2001 model year Infiniti that was rusting like crazy. I've also read some horror stories from Mazda owners at a few automotive forums.
If you are buying a Japanese make and plan to keep it for awile, my advice would be to get some form of rustproofing. Now whether it's from the dealer or from a place you go for yearly treatments, I can't tell you which is better.
I've seen many Japanese cars that are only five or six years old with rust. In fact, my cousin had a 2001 model year Infiniti that was rusting like crazy. I've also read some horror stories from Mazda owners at a few automotive forums.
If you are buying a Japanese make and plan to keep it for awile, my advice would be to get some form of rustproofing. Now whether it's from the dealer or from a place you go for yearly treatments, I can't tell you which is better.
In order for a 'rust proof' to be effective....it has to be oil based...in fact as a professional and with friends who work at Krown head office I know the oil is just a 'carrier' of the real rust proofing components. About the rubber seals taking a beating...the oil is not solvent based...so shouldn't affect the rubber seals, just ask the Krown or Rust Check dealer to spray the seals with silicone before applying the rust proof material. Dealer Rust Proofing systems don't work....PM me if you want! Cars that have a regular application of Krown or Rust Check oil will last longer, as I see vehicles from the under carriage where you see the real effectiveness of the product. In the long run saves you money in repairs and the re-sale value will be much higher! Those waxy type rustproofings are also not as effective as oil. You see when they apply the oil it atomizes and can creep into the smallest of areas. Best time to oil spray....believe it or not...spring! Hope this helps!
BIGODEE said:If my chemistry serves me correct. Oil/oil based products and rubber do not mix well at all. The oil will deteriorate (eat away) the rubber.
There are a lot of suspension components with rubber based bushings, engine mounts and fuel/break lines with rubber seals. Rustproofing chemicals are typically oil based with chemical adhesives and if they are improperly applied - get sprayed onto parts with rubber, you'll have more to worry about then rust.
I'm speaking from experience... I had to replace all my suspension bushings and main drive shaft guibo
Oh, and as for the doors, if they spray that crap inside the doors, and destroy the sheeting action that occurs - the doors are designed to funnel/sheet water down the inside door and vent it through small water drains at the bottom of the door jams. If they get plugged, water doesn't drain and builds up causing moisture and condensation and rust. Worst is the accumulation of water in the door jam and then it freezes over night (remember what happens to water when it freezes - expands.)
Also, in my case, the undercarriage was sprayed with a tar based sticky substance, and it was applied over the cooling fins of the transmission housing and rear differential (that had cooling fins as well). Now, the transmission and differential weren't properly dissipating heat causing shifting problems and overheating the diff. What a nightmare to get that tar removed. NEVER AGAIN!!
I'm telling you it's a mechanics dreams and an owners nightmare.
My rule of thumb. If it's a car you really like, don't drive it in the winter, and buy a winter-beater.
BIGODEE said:
You say that your car was sprayed with a sticky tar-based substance? You can't be talking just about Krown or Rust Check products. Those companies do not use tar based substances. You may have had their product applied but there is also something else on there. Rust Check is a very thin hydrophobic oil and it drips off of your car for days after application (leave it parked on the road for 2 days after application).
Tar undercoatings should never be used as they trap heat and moisture as you reported.
I have had Rust Check applied to my car for over 19 years now and have none of the problems you report. I still have all of the original suspension components and have experienced none of the troubles which you report.
i guess its up to the owner if they want to rustproof their vehicle. there are always pros and cons about rustproofing so for me if i want to keep my vehicle for 6-7 years ill definitely go and have it rustproof. or if you dont want to do it then every winter time wash your vehicle at least once a week.
