rust proofing a 2011 Scion
- Thread starter Big Rig
- Start date
If it was brand new I'd recommend rust proofing at Krown, not the dealership. You re-spray every year with Krown but it's much better than a one-shot deal from the dealer. Costs around $125 each time.
I know a guy who got it done by the dealer and it was a NIGHTMARE to get them to repair the rust damage that eventually occurred. They finally did it but he had to hound them for months.
I'd also be concerned you're going to get into a debate over whether the rust started pre- or post-rust spraying.
I know a guy who got it done by the dealer and it was a NIGHTMARE to get them to repair the rust damage that eventually occurred. They finally did it but he had to hound them for months.
I'd also be concerned you're going to get into a debate over whether the rust started pre- or post-rust spraying.
they claim to remove all rust before the spray so no argument as to when rust occurred
BUT
I just talked to Automobile Protection Association and they state oil based is superior and they recommend Krown
It is also cheaper at $120 per year instead of $800 plus taxes for five years
Here is an alternative I have been using in the last 20 years without any rust problems on the car. If you see a rusty car in the street you will see that they rust in the wheel well and at the bottom of the doors. Go to Canadian Tire and get a can of Rust Check ( or any other brand of rust spray ) Stick the spray tube in the drain under the doors and spray at the 9, 10, 12, 2 and 3 O'clock positions. Tilt the spray tube away from the car so that the oil spry coats the doors. Most of the time the rear wheel wells are sealed and there is not much you can do back there. In the front you might be able to get at the inside of the fenders from the engine compartment through slots and holes. Rust Check will cost you about $12 a can and you can use half now and half next spring. Just a quick squirt is all you need. Too much will just leak out and make a mess.
I have see ads or places that will spray your car for $99, what do you thing you are getting after they take overhead and labor into account?
Are not spray holes made by the manufacturer and it is these holes the oil is sprayed into? The spray is misted to cover as much area as possible then the oil will travel on its own to cover other areas the spray could not reach. The steel is now protected against salt water
Here is an alternative I have been using in the last 20 years without any rust problems on the car. If you see a rusty car in the street you will see that they rust in the wheel well and at the bottom of the doors. Go to Canadian Tire and get a can of Rust Check ( or any other brand of rust spray ) Stick the spray tube in the drain under the doors and spray at the 9, 10, 12, 2 and 3 O'clock positions. Tilt the spray tube away from the car so that the oil spry coats the doors. Most of the time the rear wheel wells are sealed and there is not much you can do back there. In the front you might be able to get at the inside of the fenders from the engine compartment through slots and holes. Rust Check will cost you about $12 a can and you can use half now and half next spring. Just a quick squirt is all you need. Too much will just leak out and make a mess.
I have see ads or places that will spray your car for $99, what do you thing you are getting after they take overhead and labor into account?
This is what made up my mind.
When a car is leased it still belongs to the dealership. The dealership NEVER rustproofs their own cars.
Using Rust Check spray is cheap insurance to keep the car rust free @ $25 for two cans to last you 5 years.
When you spray into the drain holes, some oil will drip back down from gravity. ( you only need to coat the steel ). Some of the oil actually travels up the door or fender by itself. That is why you sometimes see cars with dirt spots at the bottom of the door. It is oil that has dripped out and then is traveling up the door panel. The oil shows when the street get dusty in fall and spring. To get rid of the dirt just wipe with solvent and wash immediately.
I use Krown every other year. My car is 14 years old and to be honest the rust spots that are appearing are in odds spots like the door panel. I guess at some point a rock probably chipped the paint and rust started. But not much you can do about that.
The 800 diamond coat is the same cost they offered me when I bought my car 14 years ago. Amazing that the price hasn't changed.
The 800 diamond coat is the same cost they offered me when I bought my car 14 years ago. Amazing that the price hasn't changed.
The trunk lid is another important part to do
Here is an alternative I have been using in the last 20 years without any rust problems on the car. If you see a rusty car in the street you will see that they rust in the wheel well and at the bottom of the doors. Go to Canadian Tire and get a can of Rust Check ( or any other brand of rust spray ) Stick the spray tube in the drain under the doors and spray at the 9, 10, 12, 2 and 3 O'clock positions. Tilt the spray tube away from the car so that the oil spry coats the doors. Most of the time the rear wheel wells are sealed and there is not much you can do back there. In the front you might be able to get at the inside of the fenders from the engine compartment through slots and holes. Rust Check will cost you about $12 a can and you can use half now and half next spring. Just a quick squirt is all you need. Too much will just leak out and make a mess.
I have see ads or places that will spray your car for $99, what do you thing you are getting after they take overhead and labor into account?
I would stay away from any rubberized stuff as when the rubber pulls away from the metal, it allows water and salt to go under there and stay a here it can cause rusting.
I would still advise rustproofing due to our salt ridden roads in winter.
One only has to look at the Mazda population to see the evidence.
You look at Mazdas or cars in general out West in Vancouver or Down south in the US, where no road salt is used, and some of these cars even from the early 90's look brand new.
Krown or corrosion free are the tow popular ones currently.
Krown i supposed to seep more into the crevices especially during warmer weather.
Be sure to ask your Krown applicator to spray the rubber seals with silicone as Krown has caused some to swell etc.
After one full application of Krown or Corrosion Free one can easily buy cans of formulas 200o rust cure from places like Tractor supply, Canadian Tire etc and do yearly touch ups.
It's truly a great investment if you are keeping your car for more than 5 years.
I would still advise rustproofing due to our salt ridden roads in winter.
One only has to look at the Mazda population to see the evidence.
You look at Mazdas or cars in general out West in Vancouver or Down south in the US, where no road salt is used, and some of these cars even from the early 90's look brand new.
Krown or corrosion free are the tow popular ones currently.
Krown i supposed to seep more into the crevices especially during warmer weather.
Be sure to ask your Krown applicator to spray the rubber seals with silicone as Krown has caused some to swell etc.
After one full application of Krown or Corrosion Free one can easily buy cans of formulas 200o rust cure from places like Tractor supply, Canadian Tire etc and do yearly touch ups.
It's truly a great investment if you are keeping your car for more than 5 years.
Yep many have had a hard time getting Krown to honor their warranty as they have strict requirements annual spraying and complete perforation through the metal.
Corrosion Free warranties above the windows unlike Krown and requires application every 18 months instead of 12 like Krown.
Both products are quite effective and many happy customers have attested to this.
I would rustproof less for the warranty and more for the pride of having my car look great, given the elements it will be up against over the years.
It's small price to pay, given how expensive bodywork can be in comparison to the value of your car at any given time.
