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No Flash Photography

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Rockslinger

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Apr 24, 2005
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I was at a nightclub recently where there was a comedian on stage. We were allowed to take photos with our compact digital camera BUT NO FLASH allowed because it was annoying to the comedian.

The club was dimly lit (it was a nightclub) but I thought the stage wasn't too badly lit. EVERY photo I took was a mess! Even if I was allowed to use the flash, the range of the flash was only about 8 feet, not enough to reach the stage. Should I have shot a video instead at 15 fps (yes my camera is only 15 fps)?

We shot some photos at our table afterwards using the flash at 4-6 feet and those pics are fine.
 
Anyone wanting to take digital pics in a nightclub or other dark situation without a flash, should seriously consider buying a Fuji FinePix F30.

They have OUTSTANDING low light performance, and are still pocket-able.
 
Low light photography is where a Nikon F5, a 50mm / F1.4 fixed lense, and Fuji 800 speed pro film shows it's worth. The Noct Nikkor lense helps too.

You can take pictures of people lit by candlelight from a hand-held camera. You will have grain, but nothing beats the effect.

After that, you are in the land of tripods.
 
lol.. cass...
Yes.. we'd all love to have that 800$ 35mm SLR and 400$ prime lens. (I got one for sale if you need it!)

I'm talking about a small portable cam for under 430$. Plus, it's a might bit less conspicuous.

I have about 70 cameras at my fingertips, and the Fuji F30 is the portable I would choose, and the Pentax K100D is the DSLR I would choose for an economical solution. You can get better, but it becomes a tilting teeter-totter with a lot of tsk-tskers on each side. (mmmm alliteration!)

Film..? pahh... leave it with the Red Sovine 8-tracks, and Bob Dylan LPs. (joke)

Was the camera you used a Kodak? They have horribly underpowered flash modules, even for a compact cam.
 
Thanks guys. I went to a camera store and was also advised that the best non-SLR in a low light situation is the FUJI F30 whuch has an amazing max ISO of 3200. Even if we were allowed to use the flash, the normal effective range is only about 10 feet.

Would taking a video, either the camera version or a real camcorder, have produced better results? At least, I would have had sound (thought about it afterwards)?
 
I would expect taking a video to degrade the camera's performance. Although, it may be a camera-specific thing, and depend very much on the shutter speed in use when in picture mode.

If you had a photo-multiplier ($$$$$), then you could shoot video in any light. When you see green camera shots of night-time war footage, then you are looking at the output from a photo-multiplier.
 
1. Set your digital camera to "continuous" or "burst" mode and keep the flash off. If you have a sensitivity/ISO setting on the camera (e.g. 50/100/200/800), choose the biggest number (this will mean your shots will be noisy/grainy but that's the low-light trade-off for most compact digitals.

2. Put the camera on a steady surface so you're not shaking it while the shutter is open.

3. Shoot as many pictures as you can in a row by holding down the shutter button. If your subject has stayed still for 1/2 a second or so while you have been firing your sequence, you will get at least one good shot.

4. Stop lying and just admit you're trying to take photos in a strip club.
 
Heads up: Canon's are the absolute worst cameras when flash isn't available.
 
VidiEdit said:
lol.. cass...
Yes.. we'd all love to have that 800$ 35mm SLR and 400$ prime lens. (I got one for sale if you need it!)

I'm talking about a small portable cam for under 430$. Plus, it's a might bit less conspicuous.

I have about 70 cameras at my fingertips, and the Fuji F30 is the portable I would choose, and the Pentax K100D is the DSLR I would choose for an economical solution. You can get better, but it becomes a tilting teeter-totter with a lot of tsk-tskers on each side. (mmmm alliteration!)

Film..? pahh... leave it with the Red Sovine 8-tracks, and Bob Dylan LPs. (joke)

Was the camera you used a Kodak? They have horribly underpowered flash modules, even for a compact cam.
Click to expand...

Will the K100D accept K-MOUNT lens from a K1000? (pm me, please)
 
papasmurf,

The K-mount lenses will fit on the new K100D and the K110D, with the following restriction... you must be in full manual mode, the camera cannot change aperature or focus on the old lenses, as they have no servo motors in them. The mount is exactly the same for the 25 year old system.

ALSO focusing is a bit difficult as there is no split prism in the new digital bodies. Though there is a way one can add it through hardware modification, thusly totally violating your 2 year warranty.
 
karth said:
Heads up: Canon's are the absolute worst cameras when flash isn't available.
Click to expand...

really? I've been using Canon dRebel, 10D, 20D, 30D, 5D photographing concerts and other pics

ISO 3200

Deer.jpg
 
DSLR's have reached the price point of "point and shoot" camera's.

If you want to shoot concerts...you will need a camera that has 3200 ISO.

Yes depending on the camera you will get grain in your final output, but that is ofen desireable.

What you cannot get on a point and shoot is a flash that will deliver results much past 12 feet.

For that you need a DSLR and an attached flash...not the onboard camera pop up.

It will be trial and error if you have never done this, but it really is very simple.

There are lots of places on the net that have instructions for your camera and flash.

Add for instance a Gary Fong Lightsphere to your flash and you'll look like a pro.

(Fongs gear is available at Vistek)

It's not that hard to get great shots..but you cannot get mag covers from a point and shoot camera..thats just reality.

M2
 
Monkeychan....nice shots btw!
 
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