New car negotiations

Hangman

The Ideal Terbite
Aug 6, 2003
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I'm planning to buy a modest new car (mid 30's). I have 2 models in mind.

What I'd like to know is what can I legitimately expect to be able to bargain the salesguy down on? Total cost? Freight and PDI? Finance rate? Or am I better off trying for some free extras, like a free set of snow tires?

Any help is appreciated. I just want an idea of how to approach it.
 
Yes, negotiate. Do it over the phone. Every time they try to delay and keep you on the line, have them call you back. Call multiple dealers with the same things.

Once you have a price, start asking for extras. And don't let them sell you on extras like rust proofing or upholstery care or extended warranties. Those are pure profit for the dealer.

Do not negotiate face to face in a dealership. Do it over the phone, and let them you will be prepared to make a decision in 24 hours and that you are calling other dealers, and that you will put a deposit in via credit card.

There's book called "Is that your hand in my pocket?" about negotiating that has a chapter on buying a new car. Get it and read the chapter.

http://www.amazon.com/That-Your-Hand-Pocket-Professionals/dp/0785218777
 
Go in with what the salespeople and sales manager likes to hear.

- I am ready to buy this week ( or today ) Show that you are serious, even if you are not ready to buy right away.

In this buyers climate, expect to get almost the best price right away. You might get a little better, but not a huge difference.

Go LOW BALL. This is a method to get the best deal.

Get a price and then go to the next dealer with a price 15% less and see what they say. They will probaly tell you its an impossible deal and the other salesman was BULL SHITTING you. Ask them what thie offer is. Go from dealer to dealer and get the best price.

Start with the negotiations telling the dealer you want body side molding and winter steel rims included in the price of your car. That way you save in the long run.

Good luck Mr. Phelps,

Should you be caught or killed. The Secretary of Defence will disavow any knowledge of your actions.

ssssssssssssssssssSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I think it also depends on which vehicles you're thinking of buying. Chrysler and GM would be the most anxious to deal, imports probably a little less so.

Just remember one thing: it makes ZERO difference to the dealer whether you pay cash or finance. In fact, if the OEM is offerring zero percent financing, you'd be better to finance and keep your money in the bank.

Another thing to consider: the dealer makes more money on options or a fully loaded vehicle than a base. The more you put on a vehicle the more play room they have.

Just remember: a dealer doesn't make thousands and thousands of dollars on a vehicle sale. Someone told me once that it was around 20% so if you're thinking you're going to get 40% off, that ain't going to happen. There are all kinds of numbers games dealers have with the OEMs so their margins can be higher or lower depending on volume.

Someone also told me the time to buy is the end of the month because if the dealer hasn't met his monthly sales goals, they are more anxious to deal.
 
Hangman said:
I'm planning to buy a modest new car (mid 30's). I have 2 models in mind.

What I'd like to know is what can I legitimately expect to be able to bargain the salesguy down on? Total cost? Freight and PDI? Finance rate? Or am I better off trying for some free extras, like a free set of snow tires?

Any help is appreciated. I just want an idea of how to approach it.


Freight and PDI are just other components in the sale and typically cannot be negotiated. If you did get them to reduce the freight, they would probably show it as a discount off the sale price and bill the freight at full price.

What you really want to negotiate is the total.

Many dealerships have great finance rates offered by their parent company, which you probably will never beat anywhere else. If you are financing it through a bank, go to your own bank and get an idea of the rates they will charge. If the dealer charges more than that, then finance it yourself.

On high priced vehicles, trucks, luxury cars, etc, there is a LOT of wiggle room, sometimes $5 - 10,000, so if you are buying one of those, negotiate to those levels. On mid size, mid priced cars the profits are less, and so will be the possible discounts. On a mid 30's priced car, you will probably see profits of 1,000 to 3,000 and so discounts will be based on that margin. And on econmy small cars the profits may be very small with little of no discount available.

When the Dodge neon first came out the profit was about $100, so there were no discounts.

If you are going with a new vehicle, I'd suggest you research the ads in the paper carefully. Find the good deals, as advertised and then take the ad into the dealership and ask them to improve on that deal.

I've had customers go back and forth between dealers with ever-lowering prices, ending up with very good deals, but its a lot of work. Depends how much effort you want to put into saving a hundred dollars or so.

Trade in valuation is another tricky process,and I'd suggest you try to evaluate carefully what your trade in is worth. Look at ads for similar cars, check out car lots. You can soon get a wholesale value by visiting a couple of used car lots and asking them if they want to buy it for cash.

If your trade in is not worth much, or is not something the dealer wants, they will wholesale it out right away to a lower end dealer, who may shine it up and sell it.

Many dealerships will try to get you to sign an "offer to purchase", and pay a deposit to lock in you to a sale. Then they will negotiate the heck out of a price. I'd avoid signing anything until you a price. If they absolutely refuse to consider a deal without a signed offer, then write on it something like "subject to cancellation" and only give them a very small deposit.

On the other hand if you've done your homework and you KNOW the right price, it doesn't hurt to offer a low-ball price with a hefty deposit, because if they decide not to accept it, you'll soon find out. I personally would use a cheque for my deposit, because if you do run into a dealer that wants to play games, you can always stop payment on it.

In days gone by, I've heard of dealers who drive away the trade it for "evaluation" and delay that process to give the sales staff time to work on the customer. That's probably mot too common today. And typically a used car estimator can tell pretty quickly at what price they are will in value a trade in.

In dealing with the dealership staff, sales staff and management, remember that negotiation is their business and they are probably going to be very good at it. I suggest you be polite but firm.

Don;'t be afraid to get up and walk away if you are not getting the best price. There's lots of dealers out there and many of them are cutting prices to the bone in this recession.

If you've given them a cheque, you can always stop payment on it after you leave, if they won't return it to you. But that is unlikely with reputable dealers. if you are determined to not buy, they will likely just return your cheque.

Good luck!
 
moresex4me said:
Yes, negotiate. Do it over the phone. Every time they try to delay and keep you on the line, have them call you back. Call multiple dealers with the same things.

Once you have a price, start asking for extras. And don't let them sell you on extras like rust proofing or upholstery care or extended warranties. Those are pure profit for the dealer.

Do not negotiate face to face in a dealership. Do it over the phone, and let them you will be prepared to make a decision in 24 hours and that you are calling other dealers, and that you will put a deposit in via credit card.

There's book called "Is that your hand in my pocket?" about negotiating that has a chapter on buying a new car. Get it and read the chapter.

http://www.amazon.com/That-Your-Hand-Pocket-Professionals/dp/0785218777


I'm not sure I agree with you moresx4me. When I worked in a dealership the phone calls were never taken seriously, because there was little chance of sealing a deal. I'd say its better to arm yourself with all the information you can and deal face-to-face. That way the dealer knows you are serious and he'll be more apt to sharpen his pencil.

You are right about rustproofing, paint sealer, upholstery treatments. Those are pure profit ripoffs. Extended warranties sold by dealerships have huge profits in them and probably not worthwhile.
 
Mao Tse Tongue said:
Join the APA for $65 and they give you dealer cost! Saved me thousands on every car I've bought.

http://www.apa.ca/template.asp?DocID=117

Generally that's true, however, dealers often have an invoice that includes a hidden factory rebate that they also may count on for their profit. - Particularly on higher end models.
 
Danolo said:
I'm not sure I agree with you moresx4me. When I worked in a dealership the phone calls were never taken seriously, because there was little chance of sealing a deal. I'd say its better to arm yourself with all the information you can and deal face-to-face.

You are right about rustproofing, paint sealer, upholstery treatments. Those are pure profit ripoffs. Extended warranties sold by dealerships have huge profits in them and probably not worthwhile.

Buds, phone calls weren't taken seriously where you work because the guys knew they weren't going to deal down enough to sell a car that way, at that dealership. This is becoming much more common, works for me, works for many others. It is a best kept secret.

#1 weapon a car salesman has is keeping you onsite. The more time you have invested, the less likely you are to walk. By using the phone, you just get them to call you back every time they try a delaying tactic.

Buy the book, read the chapter. And go to one of many online sites that show dealer cost for vehicles so you know how low you can go. Even at dealer cost, the dealer still makes money on volume bonuses, so if they're desperate, they'll sell at that price.
 
If you're paying cash, you have a ton of bargaining power. You can be very very aggressive with your offers.
 
Danolo said:
Generally that's true, however, dealers often have an invoice that includes a hidden factory rebate that they also may count on for their profit. - Particularly on higher end models.

True enough, but I negotiated with five different dealerships and when I returned, suddenly they were willing to lower.

I also agree that cash gives you tremendous power. I paid cash for my 7 Series and saved a ton off those financing.

BTW many websites for a particular car (say BMW or Mercedes) have threads dedicated to saving money and dealing with a dealer so you can save a ton simply by joining a board for a car you love and reading. On one of the BMW boards a guy had a form letter which he simply faxed to a shitload of dealers and waited for the offers to come in. He saved big coin basically saying "this is what I want, exactly and this is what i can afford". He got like ten replies and saved mad coin.
 
In the "bad old days", the sales staff would ask for your driver's license, so they could "verify that you are a licensed driver" for a test drive, and then not return it, saying it was in the sales manager's office, and he's gone for lunch.

Or they would hide your trade it, so you could not leave.

Or they would lose the keys to your trade in.

That doesn't happen much anymore.

But the dealer will do his best to keep you in the dealership. As long as you are sitting in that chair, they will feel that they can still negotiate.

Don't be afraid to get up and walk around a bit, or even leave for a while.
 
It's true. You can learn a lot of about your place in the world and your self-esteem by how you deal with clowns at dealerships. They will do everything they can to make you their bitch. It's a business that's still stuck in the pre-Internet age and I just love to equalize things. :)
 
Mao Tse Tongue said:
True enough, but I negotiated with five different dealerships and when I returned, suddenly they were willing to lower.


Yup... if you are in a rush, it will cost you money, but if you are willing to walk away and visit other dealerships, you can often save a lot.
 
Mao Tse Tongue said:
It's true. You can learn a lot of about your place in the world and your self-esteem by how you deal with clowns at dealerships. They will do everything they can to make you their bitch. :D


Hahhaha you were the kind of customer I used to love to deal with... it was always a challenge..
 
HG Hunter said:
If you're paying cash, you have a ton of bargaining power. You can be very very aggressive with your offers.

Sorry dude, cash doesn't mean a thing. In fact, it is more deterimental to the dealer having to handle the large cash transaction than pushing some buttons on a computer.

As for stopping payment on a cheque, that would be difficult because many dealers take the cheque the second you're out the door and certify it. Even barring that if you stop payment you'd be in breach of contract and could be sued. There is no cooling off period for vehicle sales, once you sign the contract, the car is yours.

As stated, one good "out" is to put a clause in that states 'subject to (insert family or friend's name here) approval. Even at my age I still put "subject to father's approval" because then I could just say to him "say no" lol and the dealer has to cancel the deal.

There is NO reputable dealer that will get you to sign anything or give any sort of deposit during the negotiation stage. They will however get a "work sheet" and put numbers on it for negotiation (depending on how many models/styles you're looking at buying).

Most dealers will deal better with inventory on their lot as opposed to ordering or locating through a dealer trade. There are costs associated with both. I've always got the best deals with vehicles that are on the lot. My last vehicle was there for about a month so they were anxious to move it.
 
tboy said:
Sorry dude, cash doesn't mean a thing. In fact, it is more deterimental to the dealer having to handle the large cash transaction than pushing some buttons on a computer.

Are you kidding? He doesn't actually mean a suitcase. He means as opposed to financing.

It depends on the situation but especially end of years, cash deals always get you more leverage. They're just pushing a car through their system to increase their leverage with the mothership. Other times, they want you to finance obviously because that's where much of their profits lies.
 
One thing that Mao said is true: if you know exactly what you want, it is easy to find the best price. Where you run into trouble is where there are (albeit minor) differences between models. Dealers play up the importance between tan leather and black leather like it's a totally different model.
 
tboy said:
As for stopping payment on a cheque, that would be difficult because many dealers take the cheque the second you're out the door and certify it. Even barring that if you stop payment you'd be in breach of contract and could be sued. There is no cooling off period for vehicle sales, once you sign the contract, the car is yours.

I agree. The only time when you may want to consider stopping payment is long before a final contract is written... only at the offer stage.

tboy you may be right about not needing a deposit at the negotiating stage, its been a few years since I was in the business. Just be careful what you sign.. even a worksheet can be a binding agreement if you don';t have an escape clause written on it.
 
Mao Tse Tongue said:
Are you kidding? He doesn't actually mean a suitcase. He means as opposed to financing.

It depends on the situation but especially end of years, cash deals always get you more leverage. They're just pushing a car through their system to increase their leverage with the mothership. Other times, they want you to finance obviously because that's where much of their profits lies.

Well either you pay cash, or cheque, bank draft or finance/lease. Are you talking about putting down a cash deposit? If you're not, you ARE talking about a suitcase full of cash if you're paying cash for something, that means BILLS. To get $38K in cash, you have to order it from your bank, most often you can't just walk in and withdraw 38 $1,000.00 bills....

Which brings up another point: don't forget the $7K (plus or minus) that is added on to the sticker price of the vehicle with the air tax tire tax, gst pst, admin fees, processing fees, licence fees, gas, window cleaning fees, valve stem fees and every bloody other fee they tack on.....