I had a squirrel eat 2 of my plug wires (he did leave a nut behind in payment), then eat another one when I replaced the original meals. Ended up sprinkling chili powder and red pepper over the wires and the ground under where I parked.
Mechanic Rip off?
- Thread starter stinkynuts
- Start date
Well, I went in without knowing what was wrong. They took two hours to find out, and then five hours to fix it.
I had my check engine light come on a few times last year. Turns out it was a misfire which led to a plugged cat which then damaged the engine. Luckily the new engine and cats where under warranty.
Anytime you get a check engine light they should be able to read a code however that sometimes only gets them close.
A couple of years ago I broke down in the US. The tow truck driver took me to a place where all you could hear was the theme song from Deliverance. The hillbilly, sorry, mechanic was attempting to build a new part for my exotic car. Had to sit under a tree in 100 degree weather for 5 or 6 hours.
Well ok,
Where to start....
1. Some cars have struts, many more have strut / shock combinations. Usually your average strut on say an Accord goes for about $150.00 to $200.00 each.
2. If it is a front strut, usually the upper bearing is gone or going.
3. Then there's compressing the spring. No farking driveway mechanic is going to compress the spring without blowing his nuts off.
4. Then there's a 4 wheel alignment that you need after installing the 4 struts since all the camber values will be off. That will run you $100.00 to $120.
Add it all up and I don't see how you can do the job for a grand. It just doesn't add up, even if the guy was working for free.
Are you sure he did the work he promised you?
auto electrical work takes time to diagnose. It is usually straight time so if u stayed there 7 hours and they only charged you 400 than you should write them a thank you card (7X100 per hour =700).
It is charged as straight time as it could take half an hour or if you gotta take the dash off to do more diagnosis it could take 6-10 hours just for that. So it all depends what is wrong with your car.
Also there is no reason to be upset at shops for charging that much an hour. Remember they have to pay for technician, advisor, parts ppl and pick up, storage, heating, shuttle, and other overhead fees and government taxes and fees and regulations and licences. Remember SPs charge more than 2.5 times and there is not much overhead there.
It is charged as straight time as it could take half an hour or if you gotta take the dash off to do more diagnosis it could take 6-10 hours just for that. So it all depends what is wrong with your car.
Also there is no reason to be upset at shops for charging that much an hour. Remember they have to pay for technician, advisor, parts ppl and pick up, storage, heating, shuttle, and other overhead fees and government taxes and fees and regulations and licences. Remember SPs charge more than 2.5 times and there is not much overhead there.
Who the fuck knows what was involved Stinky, you're just pissed that you sat there all day. Next time, drop your car off in the morning and come back in the evening to pick it up.
Most likely what happened is that they diagnosed your problem, then they had to order part of a wiring harness (if it was indeed chewed up) from a dealer, then WAIT for the part to come to them. Then they did the work. (I find it amazing that they could find a section of wiring harness. Usually that sort of thing has to be ordered from the manufacturer.) If they just cut some generic wire and crimped it on using CTC quick connectors, good luck cause it's going to fall off in about 4 months.
If all it cost you was 400 bucks, and they did a proper job, you made out pretty good.
Most likely what happened is that they diagnosed your problem, then they had to order part of a wiring harness (if it was indeed chewed up) from a dealer, then WAIT for the part to come to them. Then they did the work. (I find it amazing that they could find a section of wiring harness. Usually that sort of thing has to be ordered from the manufacturer.) If they just cut some generic wire and crimped it on using CTC quick connectors, good luck cause it's going to fall off in about 4 months.
If all it cost you was 400 bucks, and they did a proper job, you made out pretty good.
that is called flat rate and the reason that they charge what they do is because they DO have the air gun, hoist, location, insurance (premisis), liability insurance, years of schooling, etc etc etc.
Oh, and don't forget about the problem brake jobs where it takes them MORE than 2 hrs because of some rusted bolt or something. They can't charge MORE for it. Also, don't forget about the .10 units they get charged for replacing a burned out bulb and it often takes 30 for the same reason.
You all complain about a guy trying to make a living at $50.00 an hour (that's the shop rate but the mechanic doesn't make close to that) but you'll pay $250.00 for an hour with an SP with no qualms?
Sheesh.
I was a licensed auto mechanic (technician) for many years until a work related injury forced to me to change professions. I can say, from personal experience, that it’s a tough job, especially diagnosing electrical problems, such as a broken wire within a wiring harness that may contains up to 100 wires.
As for “book time”, that’s called flat rate. A good tech can beat the “book time” due to his knowledge, ability, and the $30,000 worth of tools he bought.
Don’t knock the Techs, on the whole they do a great job.
As for “book time”, that’s called flat rate. A good tech can beat the “book time” due to his knowledge, ability, and the $30,000 worth of tools he bought.
Don’t knock the Techs, on the whole they do a great job.
As Tboy and Cutterbuck have pointed out regarding the cost per hour and flat rate shops. They have covered the majority of th epoints I was going to make and they are bang on.
I have been on all sides of this issue, the consumer, the shop and the parts supplier to the shop. One mechanic I had working for me years ago used to have cards printed up for when he was called out to boost a clients dead battery.
The cards had his shop name and phone number on the front and on the back it said the charge for the boost is $15.00. That is $2.00 for the boost and $13.00 for having the right tools and the KNOWLEDGE on how to do it.
It sure stopped the bitching for his 2 minutes. It never ceases to amaze me how many people complain about how much a service costs, when they have know idea how to do it themselves. Plumbers and electricians get rich on things that people should be able to do themselves, not on the big jobs.
They all have invested many hundreds or thousands of hours learning the trade they are in, not to mentionthe tools that they are required to own in order to do their jobs. I have probably $5,000. in tools for just for tinkering on my cars and I know I could never pass as a technician today.
I recently bought a scan tool for my car so that I could analyse the computer system when a fault light (check engine) shows up. It hasn't paid for itself yet, but I know the first time I need it for one of those goofy codes and I can take it to a shop, other than a dealer and tell them where to begin it will more than pay for itself.
BTW a shop rate in the Toronto area now is usually between $65 and $95/hr for mechanical work. Body work is higher again.
I have been on all sides of this issue, the consumer, the shop and the parts supplier to the shop. One mechanic I had working for me years ago used to have cards printed up for when he was called out to boost a clients dead battery.
The cards had his shop name and phone number on the front and on the back it said the charge for the boost is $15.00. That is $2.00 for the boost and $13.00 for having the right tools and the KNOWLEDGE on how to do it.
It sure stopped the bitching for his 2 minutes. It never ceases to amaze me how many people complain about how much a service costs, when they have know idea how to do it themselves. Plumbers and electricians get rich on things that people should be able to do themselves, not on the big jobs.
They all have invested many hundreds or thousands of hours learning the trade they are in, not to mentionthe tools that they are required to own in order to do their jobs. I have probably $5,000. in tools for just for tinkering on my cars and I know I could never pass as a technician today.
I recently bought a scan tool for my car so that I could analyse the computer system when a fault light (check engine) shows up. It hasn't paid for itself yet, but I know the first time I need it for one of those goofy codes and I can take it to a shop, other than a dealer and tell them where to begin it will more than pay for itself.
BTW a shop rate in the Toronto area now is usually between $65 and $95/hr for mechanical work. Body work is higher again.
I had my engine light go on once because I used a higher octane gas. The station had no more regular, and was selling super for the same price, it took a couple of tank fills before it went away.
I thought it would be the other way around - High performance cars requires the higher performance fuels...I have heard that you should run a tank or two of high performance gas prior to doing a drive clean test...
As for the engine light, check the net for forums on your specific make of vehicle. Some vehicles have ways to identify what type of problem your vehicle is experiencing.
For example, on Dodge and Chrysler vehicles simply turn the ignition key to the on and off position three times (do not start the car) and leave it in the on position. Look at the mileage odometer and it will display one or more "P codes".
There are lots of sites that have the code reference look-ups. It will identify lots of things (oxygen sensor, dashboard cluster, gas tank, etc.)
You may not be able to fix your vehicle, but at least you will have a good idea what is wrong with it when you take it to a mechanic.
you should see winner007.......he`ll even give you a premium
https://terb.cc/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=258983
here you go. http://repairpath.com/
do it yourself next time and send me a check for my SP account. $57 per use is a fair rate. thank you.
do it yourself next time and send me a check for my SP account. $57 per use is a fair rate. thank you.
I do my own break work, and I do not have a hoist or air gun. Rather than going to a garage where I will have to wait a moring or afternoon to have my brakes done. Where I may or may not be ripped off. I do it myself in about 30 to 45 minutes.
- Front brakes are as easy as undoing the bolts and replacing them the worn brake pads with new ones. I recommend ceramic brake pads, as they last a long time and do not make the black dust that discolors your wheels.
- Back brake shoes are much more complicated, but I learned to do it myself as well. They do not have to be done as often. It is removal and replacement of brake shoes. An adjustment is easy once you learn to do it.
You need a good hydralic jack and jack stands, and some basic tools. You can buy an electric impact gun on special at CDN tire for $29 ( on special ) I am sure you can learn how to do automotive brakes on the internet or Youtube. I have saved thousands of dollars and many hours of wait time over the last 15 years that I have been doing my own brake work.
Well brakes. I wouldn't even TOUCH them unless you have a really REALLY good thorough knowledge of what you're doing. I mean, if you fuck them up, you are risking your life!
Hamster: how do you turn your rotors and drums? If you don't turn them, that's probably why you have to go with ceramic pads because I bet the asbestos or composite pads were wearing out rather fast weren't they?
I also bet if you don't turn your rotors your stopping distance is reduced as well due to the reduced contact patch.
I also think that one should be able to SPELL brakes before attempting to replace them!!! (sorry, couldn't let that one go by without saying SOMEthing lol)
Hamster: how do you turn your rotors and drums? If you don't turn them, that's probably why you have to go with ceramic pads because I bet the asbestos or composite pads were wearing out rather fast weren't they?
I also bet if you don't turn your rotors your stopping distance is reduced as well due to the reduced contact patch.
I also think that one should be able to SPELL brakes before attempting to replace them!!! (sorry, couldn't let that one go by without saying SOMEthing lol)
Yaa these day's one has to be really careful with Mechanics, Plumbers, and few other blue collar independent workers they really rip you off once they smell that the client has no knowledge of the problem for which he as been called to render his services.
Therefore its much safer to book your car with a dealer or a known workshop where you are not ripped-off, same goes if you call an unknown plumber to your house he would surely rip you off, these day's its a new way of scaming people the legal way
Therefore its much safer to book your car with a dealer or a known workshop where you are not ripped-off, same goes if you call an unknown plumber to your house he would surely rip you off, these day's its a new way of scaming people the legal way
Ah ok, whatever you say....considering I have 3 yrs towards my licence, plus have been doing brakes since time immortal, since my father was a brake specialist for over 30 yrs, yeah ok.
Newer rotors and drums are lighter and thinner than ever before. The tremendous heat generated by the brakes causes them to warp. This too wears out pads rapidly and reduces stopping distance. Even a slight "out of flat" will cause the brakes to perform less than spec.
If the face of the rotor wore even slightly less than flat, the pads and drums won't contact the entire face ALSO causing reduced performance.
