Kitchen reno referal ????

chuckparker

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Mar 25, 2006
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Has anyone had a complete kitchen reno done where you were happy with the quality and the price ???

Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
I built the room myself - demo, subfloor, framing, insulation, plumbing, electrical, drywall, paint, tile flooring backsplash, finish carpentry.

I had a Cabinet maker make me custom "face frame" cabinets and I'm very happy with his work. (And Im a picky fucker).

Cost was higher, but everything was custom made, fitted, tweaked, crowned and finished on site. He gave good peformance for his money and I would recommend. Cost will depend on what you want. If you think you're going to spend 10k on a set of cabinets, he's not your guy. In my case, the face frame cabinetry was far more expensive than the more common and easy to make "European Style" cabinets where you have boxes and doors only.

Granite was by Custom granite and was excellent quality.
 
Not a kitchen, but...

I had my basement done 8 years ago.

I was totally and completely satisfied with the job done and the price I payed! It included exterior walls, insulated floor to ceiling, interior walls, all electrical including hidden home theater cabling, and cat 5 network cabling, drywall, taping, paint, finished carpentry etc. We added an office, kids playroom, rec room, billiards room, oak wet bar, and a 3 pc bathroom (including lavatory, sink w/ oak vanity, shower stall). Also included a drop ceiling and ceramic tile in the bar/ bathroom, carpet through the rest.

Mrs CG calls it my bachelor pad! :cool:
 
I build custom kitchens, everything from the ground up. I can certainly build something within your budget.

If you want to see some of my work, pm with your email address and I'll send you my website and additional pics......
 
true value is finding a trustworthy terbite who can do that kinda work. there are quite a few reno contractors here... I suggest you request their info and check some of them out.
 
face frame cabinets have a hardwood (or some cases a softwood) "frame" around the box instead of just a taped or solid edge. The doors can be inset or mounted proud of the actual cabinet sides.

One of the main differences between a custom kitchen and a system is that they can be built specifically for your application. Most system cabinets come on 2" centres. ie: 20" 22" 24" etc. This causes the need for large "fillers" at each end of a run. When you go custom, if you need a cabinet 13 11/16" wide, you can get one 13 11/16" wide.

Couple that with the ability to make doors specifically to your ideal. For eg: say you like style A, with rails and stiles from style b. Many systems don't offer you that ability because most manufacturers simply order doors from another supplier.

Another difference between custom and system is I typically use a full 1/2" th back panel instead of 1/8" with stretchers. This means that the cabinet will stay square, and is more solidily built. I also use a higher density melamine. If you have ever seen ikea kitchen cabinets, you can flake the partical core off with your thumb....
 
I know I could google it but I'll ask anyways.... :p what exactly are "face frame" cabinets?

Old school cabinets. Far more expensive because they're far more work.

If you want to see some photos, you can go here (this guy is GOOD, probably the best in the GTA and you have to pay for that. But if you have the dough, he's worth it.)

http://www.bloomsburydesign.com/

Note the frames around the doors and doors are set into the frames, so there is 0 forgiveness, 0 adjustment. "European Style" is very very forgiving, but looks OK at best. (IMHO)
 
Now that is HIGH END! WOW

Depending on ceiling height - Bloomsbury is $1,000.00 to $1,200 per linear foot for uppers and lowers - designed, fabricated, and installed. I've met the owner and he's a very decent down to earth guy. I didn't use them for a couple of reasons (not his price, not his quality). I had another fabricator do my face frames in a similar style.

Custom European cabinets can be had for half of that.

Off the shelf - whatever Home Depot sells for.
 
Old school cabinets. Far more expensive because they're far more work.

If you want to see some photos, you can go here (this guy is GOOD, probably the best in the GTA and you have to pay for that. But if you have the dough, he's worth it.)

http://www.bloomsburydesign.com/

Note the frames around the doors and doors are set into the frames, so there is 0 forgiveness, 0 adjustment. "European Style" is very very forgiving, but looks OK at best. (IMHO)

well, about face frames and inset doors. While there is 0 adjustment, once the carcase is built and the frames installed it is pretty easy to get close tolerances. The thing is, you'd better make sure the doors are well sealed if you're going for close tolerances: if the humidity rises too much in the house the doors will swell and won't operate. In our climate since we get extremely dry, and extremely humid conditions, close tolerances aren't the best thing to have.

Sorry if James T doesn't think european hinge doors are just "ok", I can build you a kitchen that using euro hinges that will make a millionaire wet his pants. In fact, I was part of a team that built a $75,000.00 cherry kitchen....(and we used euro hinges).
 
Thanks for the explanation tboy n' james. That's kinda what I thought they were, but nice to have the confirmation.
 
The thing is, you'd better make sure the doors are well sealed if you're going for close tolerances: if the humidity rises too much in the house the doors will swell and won't operate. In our climate since we get extremely dry, and extremely humid conditions, close tolerances aren't the best thing to have.

That's the truth... I have an old 'record' cabinet that my dad made when he was a teen.... in the summer you have to close both doors together as they overlap each other a titch... in the winter there's at least an 1/8" gap between them.
 
That's the truth... I have an old 'record' cabinet that my dad made when he was a teen.... in the summer you have to close both doors together as they overlap each other a titch... in the winter there's at least an 1/8" gap between them.

especially true here: summer build loose, winter build tight.......especially when using softwoods as they are more porous/absorbant than hardwoods....