FAST's response is misleading: although AC has no "polarity" when used in 120v 2-wire, AC wiring does had live wires (usually black, but not always, aka "hot"), neutral wires (usually white, but not always) (although it is almost always grounded at the panel in modern wiring, it's not called "ground" and that does not mean it's electrically at 0v), ground wires (bonding conductors)(un-insulated copper wire) and "other wires" which could be live, neutral or a switch return, depending on how they are configured. When dealing with 240v 3-wire (typical stove or dryer), the wires are 180 degrees out of phase (kind-of like polarity, but not the same thing).
As everyone said, turn the power off at the breaker. Is it copper of aluminum wiring? You can tell by the colour. If it's aluminum, make sure you have a switch certified for aluminum.
Is it a two way or 3 way switch? <-- this is important. As JTK said, does it have 2 screws or 3 screws? For 2-way, which based on your description is most likely, the rest of JTK's explanation is correct, except 1) it's not a "neutral" it's called the switch return. If it was a neutral, you would blow the breaker every time you closed the switch - neutral would be on the other side of the load which in this case is the light. You NEVER switch the neutral in household wiring. and 2) Single pole switches are not used in 240v household wiring, it's actually a dual - single pole switch (they have various trade names) <-- it's pretty rare to have a 240v switch in a typical house unless you have a 240V water heater or a 240v pool pump.
Although it's easy to replace a 2-way light switch and the risk is relatively low, there's allot more to replacing a wall plug or light receptacle. On these devices it really matters which screws you connect which wires to, don't ever assume the original installer did it right.