fridge repair?

[destillat]

Anyone have any experience fixing their fridge?
Mine is on the fritz and I don't really want to drop $2000 on a new one if I don't have to.

The computer inside the fridge doesn't work properly. If I unplug the fridge and plug it back in, the computer will display for a few minutes, then turn off... it has been like this for years but has always been cold until recently.
The fan doesn't seem to want to start turning on it's own (it isn't seized).
I hear a humming and there is semi-cool air blowing into the fridge and the freezer.
I hear a 'click' every minute or so, can't really tell if it is coming from the fan area or the compressor area, but it is coming from somewhere down low at the back of the fridge.

I got a repair guy to come look at it... he said it is most likely the main computer, the display in the fridge, or both.
He said he wouldn't bother trying to swap out the computer components, because they are non-refundable and who knows if anything else besides them is wrong.

I'm not in a huge rush (I have a little bar fridge that can keep me going for a short while).
I'd really like to fix it if I could.

Any suggestions?

 

[Sophia Sinclair]

My repair guy said the same thing to me when the motherboard went on the stove at one of my rental properties. He said even if he replaced it there's no guarantee that something systemic isn't going on and that it still won't work after such a costly repair. Better to replace the fridge and be done with it.

 

[Ceiling Cat]

Buy a good fridge but not the high end ones with all the bells and whistles like ice maker and water dispenser. I had to buy a fridge for the office a few months back. The big box stores have dented fridges that they sell for a discount. Best Buy had a dented LG refrigerator for $1400 ( original price $2000 ) It was slightly dented on the front door and had a bigger dent on the side. I bargained them down to $900. If they have a lot of dented stock they will cut the price to move the merchandise, and most people do not bargain. I stuck a wood veneer panel on the door and a cabinet hides the side dent. Plus the panels keeps the fridge from being full of finger prints on the stainless steel finish. it is a new fridge and it comes with the same warranty at less than half the price.

 

[heartthrob]

try googling your fridge for similar issues. might be a common problem or at least one that has been answered online.

 

[destillat]

try googling your fridge for similar issues. might be a common problem or at least one that has been answered online.

Yeah, I tried that.
Looks like lots of the common parts are 'no longer available' on a few after-market appliance supply sites.
I might just have to bite the bullet.

 

[james t kirk]

I think as soon as you said "the computer inside the fridge" you were screwed.

[giggle]

Yep, this is exactly correct.

Nobody can fix shit anymore because of the computers

 

[Butler1000]

Welcome to built in obsolescence for modern home appliances. General rule now appears to be 7 to 10 years.

 

[SkyRider]

I would never sell my fridge which has been on duty 24/7/365 for 33 years because I would have to replace it with a crappy new with an onboard computer that breaks down after 3 years.

 

[explorerzip]

I would never sell my fridge which has been on duty 24/7/365 for 33 years because I would have to replace it with a crappy new with an onboard computer that breaks down after 3 years.

It's only a matter of time before it croaks. I recently replaced my 'space age' golden rod fridge that was of the same vintage.

 

[Cassini]

Anyone have any experience fixing their fridge?
Mine is on the fritz and I don't really want to drop $2000 on a new one if I don't have to.

The computer inside the fridge doesn't work properly. If I unplug the fridge and plug it back in, the computer will display for a few minutes, then turn off... it has been like this for years but has always been cold until recently.
The fan doesn't seem to want to start turning on it's own (it isn't seized).
I hear a humming and there is semi-cool air blowing into the fridge and the freezer.
I hear a 'click' every minute or so, can't really tell if it is coming from the fan area or the compressor area, but it is coming from somewhere down low at the back of the fridge.

I got a repair guy to come look at it... he said it is most likely the main computer, the display in the fridge, or both.
He said he wouldn't bother trying to swap out the computer components, because they are non-refundable and who knows if anything else besides them is wrong.

I'm not in a huge rush (I have a little bar fridge that can keep me going for a short while).
I'd really like to fix it if I could.

Any suggestions?

From the description, it sounds like something went wrong with the display panel / computer at first, but the fridge could continue cooling.

Now you have a second problem.

That makes me think you have two failures, you will have to fix the computer first to find out what the second failure is, and the entire repair will be a sizeable percentage of the price of a new fridge.

 

[red]

Welcome to built in obsolescence for modern home appliances. General rule now appears to be 7 to 10 years.

How much would people pay for a fridge that lasted 20 years? Curious if there is a market

 

[hairyfucker]

the clicking is the compressor trying to kick in. this is usually the overload relay or start capacitor. if this is the only issue you could use the analogy of your starter on your car clicking when you have a low battery. it clicks but does not turn over. the capacitor provides the electrical "kick" to get the compressor running but if it is defective, shorted, etc it does not provide enough overvoltage to get the compressor running.

have this checked if you can get it done cheaply. if not, you have nothing to loose to try to do it yourself - just remember that this is a live circuit. a multi-meter can check for continuity on the relay.

I use http://www.repairclinic.com/ to find most of my appliance parts.

 

[destillat]

the clicking is the compressor trying to kick in. this is usually the overload relay or start capacitor. if this is the only issue you could use the analogy of your starter on your car clicking when you have a low battery. it clicks but does not turn over. the capacitor provides the electrical "kick" to get the compressor running but if it is defective, shorted, etc it does not provide enough overvoltage to get the compressor running.

have this checked if you can get it done cheaply. if not, you have nothing to loose to try to do it yourself - just remember that this is a live circuit. a multi-meter can check for continuity on the relay.

I use http://www.repairclinic.com/ to find most of my appliance parts.

Thanks for the tip!

I got the start capacitor out. It looks in good shape (no bulging, etc...).

Following the instructions on repairclinic.com, I tested the capacitor with my analog multimeter.
Set it to OHMS and touched the two terminals.
According to the instructions, the meter should spike towards 0, then drop back down to infinite resistance.
Sometimes it does, sometimes the needle doesn't move.
I'm not the best when it comes to the electrical world, so I don't know what that means.
I'm assuming if the capacitor was fine, the meter would read consistently.
Since the needle sometimes doesn't move, does that mean the capacitor is bad?

 

[nitelifer]

After you charge the capacity with the electrical tester....you will need to discharge the capacity....easiest way is to short it....might spark so just be prepared....then you can check it again. Then you can check it again and if the same reaction occurs to make sure its working.

You can a new compressor, I did that....had two parts die on my Fridgidare....the starter for the compressor....and the thermostat....took me about 1 week to figure it out.

The interweb is your friend...

 

[Big Sleazy]

Welcome to built in obsolescence for modern home appliances. General rule now appears to be 7 to 10 years.

Listen to the Butler. He is bang on. Though I suspect generous with the years.

 

[Titalian]

Thanks for the tip!

I got the start capacitor out. It looks in good shape (no bulging, etc...).

Following the instructions on repairclinic.com, I tested the capacitor with my analog multimeter.
Set it to OHMS and touched the two terminals.
According to the instructions, the meter should spike towards 0, then drop back down to infinite resistance.
Sometimes it does, sometimes the needle doesn't move.
I'm not the best when it comes to the electrical world, so I don't know what that means.
I'm assuming if the capacitor was fine, the meter would read consistently.
Since the needle sometimes doesn't move, does that mean the capacitor is bad?

What make is your fridge?

 

[destillat]

What make is your fridge?

It is a General Electric Profile.