Driveway redone

[xix]

A friend want his driveway done but he is afraid they may not do it right.
Is it possible to get an engineer to coordinate the work with the asphalt company?
The driveway is long and flat it can take 3.5 cars straight, now there are some areas with sink puddle extrusion on the ground and some burrows. He just wants to make sure the water/rain doesn't sit there. He wants it like the road at a proper slant.

 

[papasmerf]

of course anyone can hire a project engineer. The thing most people do wrong is cheap out. a driveway is a small road.

 

[gdog]

Best bet is to have an engineer write a small spec ( 1 page) stating compacted thickness rather than total thickness, depth of compacted sub base, type of gravel used etc; this is where most companies get you... I am sure a search on Google could also turn up a mini spec sheet. This may cost a bit more but in the long run but the driveway should last forever.

 

[james t kirk]

Here you go:

You want the Cadilac Solution?



Excavate to a level 550 mm below finished ashphalt.

Supply and install 100 mm perforated subdrains rapped in Geotextile (holes down by the way) connected to the storm sewer. Encase the subdrains in 19 mm crushed limestone or 19 mm clear. Typically, you want 100 mm on all sides of the sudrain and top of the subdrains should be even with the top of the finished subgrade. Wrap the geotextile around the clear stone to prevent ingress of fines into the stone and subdrain.

Check compaction of the subgrade to ensure that it is compacted to 99% standard Proctor Density. All compaction as per OPSS 501

Subgrade should be crowned at 2% to promote positive drainage laterally.

Supply and install 300 mm of Granular B compacted to 99% SPD as per OPSS 314 and OPSS 1010. Compact in maximum of 150 mm lifts.

Supply and Install 150 mm of Granular A compacted to 98% SPD as per OPSS 314 and OPSS 1010

Supply and Istall 50 mm of HL8 High Stability Asphalt compacted to 98% as per OPSS 310 base course

Supply and Install 50 mm of HL1 compacted to 98% SPD surface course as per OPSS 310.

You should also consider concrete curbs to keep the edges of the asphalt from breaking apart and to control drainage. Curbs go in prior to asphalt.

Here's a link to the provincial specifications. Enjoy.

https://www.raqsb.mto.gov.on.ca/techpubs/ops.nsf/OPSHomepage

You can call any number of geotechnical engineering outfits to check your compaction, asphalt, etc.

 

[MuffinMuncher]

Spend the money to hire an engineer or paving contractor and get some sort of workmanship guarantee in case there are cracks, low spots or burrow after a full turn of the seasons. Or, for alot less money you can get someone to level the existing one and seal it, knowing that you're likely to redo it every couple of years.

Or have a concrete one installed. They usually do 4x4 or 6x6 sections to limit cracking and frost heaves, but it will last a long long time and you wont have to worry about soft spots in the summer heat.

For me, unless care that its flat and level for playing basketball or whatever, its just a fricking driveway. Close enough is good enough.