Looks like there's lots of handymen in TERB. I want to tile the indoor portion of my indoor/outdoor deck. It currently has wooden planks over which I will install plywood. Should I then put Durock (cement type sheets) over the plywood or can I just attach the tiles over the plywood? All advice appreciated.
Ceramic Tiling Question
- Thread starter LatinDancer
- Start date
You need to look at the entire structure.
Tile must be placed on a very rigid floor. If there is any flex, the tiles will either crack, or pop.
First, you need to look at the joists. What size are they and how far do they span and at what spacing. Next, look in the building code, Chapter 9, floor span tables (you can probably get a copy of the BC at a library). The joists are most likely SPF No. 2 in this part of the world - so look that up in the tables. Hopefully, you do not exceed the maximum span.
Next, you need a good plywood subfloor. At least 5/8" or better yet 3/4" tongue and groove plywood. The subfloor needs to be screwed down, not nailed down with screws at 6" centres along the joists.
Next, if both of these are good, you are good to go. You do not need cement board. I would recommend you install the Ditra system by Schleuter.
http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx
Ditra can be mortared down to the plywood subfloor using a latex modied thinset (Poymere modified). You can use the PM thinset only on the underside of the Ditra because the plywood will draw off the water allowing the thinset to harden.
On the top side of the ditra, you MUST use a non polymere modified thinset because the plastic of the ditra will NOT suck out the water and the thinset will NEVER set.
Both PM and NON PM thinsets are awailable from RONA (Empai I believe is the brand name)
Last bit of advice, if you are using stone tiles, make sure you use the White Non Polymere Modified thinset because if you use the grey, the grey will bleed through the tiles.
Enjoy
Oh, and don't be too proud to use the spacers.
Tile must be placed on a very rigid floor. If there is any flex, the tiles will either crack, or pop.
First, you need to look at the joists. What size are they and how far do they span and at what spacing. Next, look in the building code, Chapter 9, floor span tables (you can probably get a copy of the BC at a library). The joists are most likely SPF No. 2 in this part of the world - so look that up in the tables. Hopefully, you do not exceed the maximum span.
Next, you need a good plywood subfloor. At least 5/8" or better yet 3/4" tongue and groove plywood. The subfloor needs to be screwed down, not nailed down with screws at 6" centres along the joists.
Next, if both of these are good, you are good to go. You do not need cement board. I would recommend you install the Ditra system by Schleuter.
http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra.aspx
Ditra can be mortared down to the plywood subfloor using a latex modied thinset (Poymere modified). You can use the PM thinset only on the underside of the Ditra because the plywood will draw off the water allowing the thinset to harden.
On the top side of the ditra, you MUST use a non polymere modified thinset because the plastic of the ditra will NOT suck out the water and the thinset will NEVER set.
Both PM and NON PM thinsets are awailable from RONA (Empai I believe is the brand name)
Last bit of advice, if you are using stone tiles, make sure you use the White Non Polymere Modified thinset because if you use the grey, the grey will bleed through the tiles.
Enjoy
Oh, and don't be too proud to use the spacers.
it would help significantly if you use PT plywood outside, and treat any ends if you cut it. you'll get much less water damage this way.
fyi i have slate in my back yard and it looks and funtions fantastic 7 years later. you really really really do need to make sure the entire structure has no flex, i can't stress that enough.
chris
fyi i have slate in my back yard and it looks and funtions fantastic 7 years later. you really really really do need to make sure the entire structure has no flex, i can't stress that enough.
chris
james t kirk said:
LOL good one james! Oh, and don't be afraid to use a straight edge when laying your first course......
