Car Warranty
- Thread starter Damondean
- Start date
Why would you need the discs and drums machined ?
I have discs replaced under warranty when they thought they were out of balance.
I have discs replaced under warranty when they thought they were out of balance.
My service manual says the same thing. The idea behind rotating the tires is so that the uneven tread wear can be distributed between two tires, tires can only be rotated from front to back. Usually the front tires wear more on the outside. Does it make any sense to rotate tires more the once during the tires life? If you do rotate the tires every 10,000 Km, will the cost of rotating the tires be recovered with the longer tire life. I think not.Sheik said:
These service manuals are money makers for the dealerships.
What's your back bumper like? Or do you have a big old trailer hitch to absorb some of the blow.Sheik said:
tbill, why would you want to change the oil every 4,500 Km, that is less then 3,000 miles.
Every time i go into the dealership for an oil change they come up with a sucker list of things that need fixing/cleaning/rotating. The list is different everytime.
Every time i go into the dealership for an oil change they come up with a sucker list of things that need fixing/cleaning/rotating. The list is different everytime.
Sheiky old buddy you might think you know something about LFs but you're blowing oil smoke on this one.Sheik said:
Oil does not discolour because it is getting burnt. If oil is being burned, it creates smoke out our ass-end. Oil discolours because modern oil contains detergents. Those detergents keep your internals cleaner. The discolouration is actually the dirt and carbon that the detergent is cleaning. If you are getting excess engine wear, you will be able to feel the gritty texture on the oil when you rub it between your fingers. If that is the case, you have bigger trouble coming. There is no difference between the length of time between oil changes for a larger engine vs. a smaller one. In fact, a V8 will produce more heat than a 4 because of it's larger displacement and more moving parts.
On my leased vehicles, I change the oil according to manufacturers reccomendations for "extreme service" which is what we are here in the Great White North. Doing it any more often than that is a waste of money and material.
The same is true with tire rotation. They should be roatated to even out wear. Front tires wear across the tread and sidewalls because of the steering. By evening out the wear across front and rear, they will share the wear and tear and last longer.
On my baby ('93 Dodge Stealth R/T TT), I change the oil every 5000km with synthetic. I also change the filter every time. A turbo-charged car presents more risks of failure with older oil. You do not want the oil gallerys in the turbos blocked then screw the blower.
No offence, you may think that you get a better trade-in allowance because of your maintenance, but the reality is, you will not get a better allowance if you "over-service" a vehicle. You are probably getting the better trade-in because you are a long-term customer. The used-car sales manager is blowing smoke up your ass to kep you as a customer.
Oil is burnt on the cylinder walls, and this burnt oil is mixed back in with the engine oil. Also, oil becomes darker because there was a certain amount of burnt exhaust that blows by the cylinder rings. If it were not for the engine oil being mixed with this burnt material (oil & gas), then the oil would stay clean looking like the transmission or brake oils.
I do my own oil changes on my vehicle and I find those motormaster brands of oil filters are crap. I used the premium filter once but not anymore. Now I use the one sold from the dealership. They make less mess when you remove the old filter because they hold in the oil instead of having it leak out like the motormaster brands do. And the cost is virtually the same. Also I don't believe in doing all of the servicing the dealer recommends: servicing brakes, clean intake, cam adjustment, tune-up. I change the air filter once a yr, and the spark plugs every 2 yrs. I haven't had any problems yet, and why clean the intake so early (50,000km). I don't doubt that it will need cleaning, perhaps at 80,000 km. My brakes work perfect too, but i don't use my brakes really hard at all. I change my oil before the recommend interval because I noticed that the engine seems to have more friction in it, and thats not good. The only thing I will probably do is change the transmission oil as recommended. You don't necessarily need to rotate your tires every 10,000km unless you drive really harsh, it doesn't make much difference in my opinion, change at 15,000 km. I don't even bother much with it, when I did my switch to snow tires, I can't see any difference between any tire (Winter or summer tires front/rears), they all look the same. But I don't drive like Mario Andretti either. However if I do get any problems, then it would be wise to do the service to help fix the problem.
tbill, why did you wash your engine. washing what little bit of oil there is on it off, is the only thing keeping it from rusting 
maybe you could ask them about engine rust protection.
maybe you could ask them about engine rust protection.
Why get all hyper over oil changes?
My last car (3.3 V6) made it to 320,000 km and lasted 10 years. At the last oil change, which I did myself with Mobil 1 since I bought it, the rocker arms were still clean and there was no sludge build up under the valve covers nor in the oil pan. Mileage was just as good as the day I bought it. I changed the oil between 8,000 km -12,000 km whenever it was convenient to do it.
The only reason I got rid of it was the rusted out gas tank, some body rust and I was ready to try something new.
My last car (3.3 V6) made it to 320,000 km and lasted 10 years. At the last oil change, which I did myself with Mobil 1 since I bought it, the rocker arms were still clean and there was no sludge build up under the valve covers nor in the oil pan. Mileage was just as good as the day I bought it. I changed the oil between 8,000 km -12,000 km whenever it was convenient to do it.
The only reason I got rid of it was the rusted out gas tank, some body rust and I was ready to try something new.
tbill,
You are getting some very good advice on this board from many people regarding your Malibu. Nobody has addressed your fuel economy issues, so I’ll try.
If your fuel economy is going down, check the simple things first like your tire pressure, air filter, spark plugs and wires.
The next culprit is usually your oxygen sensors. You have newer car, so you have 2 of them. One ahead of the catalytic convertor, and one after. Nowadays they are usually heated and last about 100,000 kms. After that, the fouling from various gases starts to slowly decrease their ability to measure the O2 content of the exhaust gases and you may notice your fuel economy ever so slowly decreasing. Then one day, you discover you have lousy fuel economy.
If you have an O2 sensor that is really gone, you can perform a simple check by using a paperclip to jump the A and B connector of the Assembly Line diagnostic Link port.
If it is slowly on it’s way out, you will have to get hold of an on board diagnostic computer and check your crosscounts and compare your Block Learn Mode values to your Integrator values. You should see your crosscounts fluctuating wildly, and your Int value should be 128, or close to it, and your BLM should be trying its best to match the Int value of 128.
The next on my list of things to check would be the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve. Unfortunately, on new cars, this is also computer controlled, so you will have to get a computer to check it as well. The General Motors dealership or a good independent garage should have a Tech II computer that can open and close the valves individually to see if they work, and check when they do open to see if it works properly.
As far as your other concerns go, most people have provided good answers, so I’ll be brief on my opinions.
Front brakes on most FWD cars are crap. Don’t turn rotors, just throw them out. The longer a pad lasts, the harder they are, so the longer stopping distance you will have. I use Raybestos pads and rotors. Changing brakes on FWD GM cars is easy. All you need is a T55 socket, big C clamp and a hammer. Email me if you want to know the details.
Rear drums on FWD cars should last well over 100,000 kms. I would turn drums once.
Rear disks on FWD cars last about the same length of time as front disks, sometimes they go first. Don’t know why.
To check the squeak in your dash, pull the cosmetic covers off underneath your dash and see if there is anything there rattling around. Unfortunately, squeaks and rattles in new cars are common. In fact they are the biggest source of complaints from Honda and Toyota owners, so buying a different car may not help you.
I change my oil every 3 months regardless of mileage since moisture builds up in the oil from sitting and short trips where the oil doesn’t get a chance to heat up. Also, I’ve got a bad memory, so I pick a quarter of a year because it is easy to remember. Can you go longer, sure, but I choose not to because as far as I’m concerned, Toronto driving is hard miles.
I rotate tires. I find they last longer.
Don’t forget to change your transmission fluid. Your trans is the most complicated component in your car, so don’t neglet it.
Finally,
Find a good independent mechanic for your non warranty work.
You are getting some very good advice on this board from many people regarding your Malibu. Nobody has addressed your fuel economy issues, so I’ll try.
If your fuel economy is going down, check the simple things first like your tire pressure, air filter, spark plugs and wires.
The next culprit is usually your oxygen sensors. You have newer car, so you have 2 of them. One ahead of the catalytic convertor, and one after. Nowadays they are usually heated and last about 100,000 kms. After that, the fouling from various gases starts to slowly decrease their ability to measure the O2 content of the exhaust gases and you may notice your fuel economy ever so slowly decreasing. Then one day, you discover you have lousy fuel economy.
If you have an O2 sensor that is really gone, you can perform a simple check by using a paperclip to jump the A and B connector of the Assembly Line diagnostic Link port.
If it is slowly on it’s way out, you will have to get hold of an on board diagnostic computer and check your crosscounts and compare your Block Learn Mode values to your Integrator values. You should see your crosscounts fluctuating wildly, and your Int value should be 128, or close to it, and your BLM should be trying its best to match the Int value of 128.
The next on my list of things to check would be the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve. Unfortunately, on new cars, this is also computer controlled, so you will have to get a computer to check it as well. The General Motors dealership or a good independent garage should have a Tech II computer that can open and close the valves individually to see if they work, and check when they do open to see if it works properly.
As far as your other concerns go, most people have provided good answers, so I’ll be brief on my opinions.
Front brakes on most FWD cars are crap. Don’t turn rotors, just throw them out. The longer a pad lasts, the harder they are, so the longer stopping distance you will have. I use Raybestos pads and rotors. Changing brakes on FWD GM cars is easy. All you need is a T55 socket, big C clamp and a hammer. Email me if you want to know the details.
Rear drums on FWD cars should last well over 100,000 kms. I would turn drums once.
Rear disks on FWD cars last about the same length of time as front disks, sometimes they go first. Don’t know why.
To check the squeak in your dash, pull the cosmetic covers off underneath your dash and see if there is anything there rattling around. Unfortunately, squeaks and rattles in new cars are common. In fact they are the biggest source of complaints from Honda and Toyota owners, so buying a different car may not help you.
I change my oil every 3 months regardless of mileage since moisture builds up in the oil from sitting and short trips where the oil doesn’t get a chance to heat up. Also, I’ve got a bad memory, so I pick a quarter of a year because it is easy to remember. Can you go longer, sure, but I choose not to because as far as I’m concerned, Toronto driving is hard miles.
I rotate tires. I find they last longer.
Don’t forget to change your transmission fluid. Your trans is the most complicated component in your car, so don’t neglet it.
Finally,
Find a good independent mechanic for your non warranty work.
My best friend is in the automotive aftermarket industry. Name brands aren't always worth the money. A few words of advice here.
When it comes to brakes don't go for name brands such as Raybestos, Aimco etc. Although they might and I say MIGHT be made slightly better than an offshore (chinese) brand, the price difference is huge and never worth the money. The prices differ from model to model but if you're paying more than $30 a rotor and about $25 for a set of pads, you're paying too much. Expect to pay at least double that amount for a name brand such as Raybestos which are not going to last you twice as much. If you have a reasonable independent mechanic he can install them for you for about $40 to $50 So complete set of new front brakes is gonna cost you about $120 - $130.
Never let any mehanic talk you into machining rotors, because they make more money on labour that way than thay would if they sold you rotors. (that is of course if you know where to buy rotors cheap) plus the weakness of the machined (read thinned) rotor is going to bring you back to him for new ones in a couple of months anyways.
Most of the name brands are just packaging companies and not actual manufacturers. I've seen the exact same set of pads come out of a $ 20, made in chine box and $75 Raybestos box. In most cases you're just buying/paying for the box.
The only time I would go with a first line (name brand) product would be with chassis parts such as ball joints and tie rods. Then I would go with a name brand such as Moog or Spicer and pay the extra money simply because they do last at least twice as long and also require more labour to install. So the extra money spent here would make sense, otherwise you're going to spend it on labour in the long run.
When it comes to fuel economy, every little bit helps but the best thing you can change to get more mileage is your driving habits. Don't stomp the accelerator pedal from light to light instead, let the car gently accelerate through the gears at it's own pace. When you want to pass somebody on the highway, same thing, do it gradually, sudden dips into the throttle often causes your transmission to shift to a lower gear bringing the revs up, not only burning more fuel but also overworking your transmission and engine as well. Plan your driving, if you see a red light ahead, come off the gas let the car slow down by itself (easy on the brakes).
Same thing applies to moving chassis parts like ball joints, tie rods shocks and struts, take it easy around the corners don't let the whole weight of the car lean onto these comparably tiny little parts that control the whole vehicle.
In general, be gentle with your car you'll find everything lasts much longer including your tank of gas.
When it comes to brakes don't go for name brands such as Raybestos, Aimco etc. Although they might and I say MIGHT be made slightly better than an offshore (chinese) brand, the price difference is huge and never worth the money. The prices differ from model to model but if you're paying more than $30 a rotor and about $25 for a set of pads, you're paying too much. Expect to pay at least double that amount for a name brand such as Raybestos which are not going to last you twice as much. If you have a reasonable independent mechanic he can install them for you for about $40 to $50 So complete set of new front brakes is gonna cost you about $120 - $130.
Never let any mehanic talk you into machining rotors, because they make more money on labour that way than thay would if they sold you rotors. (that is of course if you know where to buy rotors cheap) plus the weakness of the machined (read thinned) rotor is going to bring you back to him for new ones in a couple of months anyways.
Most of the name brands are just packaging companies and not actual manufacturers. I've seen the exact same set of pads come out of a $ 20, made in chine box and $75 Raybestos box. In most cases you're just buying/paying for the box.
The only time I would go with a first line (name brand) product would be with chassis parts such as ball joints and tie rods. Then I would go with a name brand such as Moog or Spicer and pay the extra money simply because they do last at least twice as long and also require more labour to install. So the extra money spent here would make sense, otherwise you're going to spend it on labour in the long run.
When it comes to fuel economy, every little bit helps but the best thing you can change to get more mileage is your driving habits. Don't stomp the accelerator pedal from light to light instead, let the car gently accelerate through the gears at it's own pace. When you want to pass somebody on the highway, same thing, do it gradually, sudden dips into the throttle often causes your transmission to shift to a lower gear bringing the revs up, not only burning more fuel but also overworking your transmission and engine as well. Plan your driving, if you see a red light ahead, come off the gas let the car slow down by itself (easy on the brakes).
Same thing applies to moving chassis parts like ball joints, tie rods shocks and struts, take it easy around the corners don't let the whole weight of the car lean onto these comparably tiny little parts that control the whole vehicle.
In general, be gentle with your car you'll find everything lasts much longer including your tank of gas.
Sgt. Stiffcock,
I try "whitebox" parts from time to time. Some work, some don't. For my daily driver, there are 2 types of rotors available, a regular one, and a premium. The premium is about $20 more a rotor. I buy them because I find they go longer before warping. Driving nice and easy isn't possible if you drive the DVP or Gardiner. Too many suprises pop up.
I also use brand name pads because they seem to work better for me. I once bought a set of motomaster pads, and a month later I changed them to Raybestos because in the winter, I had to put my foot all the way to the floor to stop the first few times because the pads needed some heat in them to work properly. Didn't like that.
I installed a Fenco waterpump from Cdn Tire in my dad's car because Carquest and Battery Supply didn't have one in stock. It lasted less than 18 months and 5,000 kms before squeaking.
In short, I'm willing to try "whitebox" parts if the price difference is great enough or the parts store can tell me who makes the part, but in general, I'll pay the extra $5 or $10 to get the brand name. I save money on labour by doing it myself.
I try "whitebox" parts from time to time. Some work, some don't. For my daily driver, there are 2 types of rotors available, a regular one, and a premium. The premium is about $20 more a rotor. I buy them because I find they go longer before warping. Driving nice and easy isn't possible if you drive the DVP or Gardiner. Too many suprises pop up.
I also use brand name pads because they seem to work better for me. I once bought a set of motomaster pads, and a month later I changed them to Raybestos because in the winter, I had to put my foot all the way to the floor to stop the first few times because the pads needed some heat in them to work properly. Didn't like that.
I installed a Fenco waterpump from Cdn Tire in my dad's car because Carquest and Battery Supply didn't have one in stock. It lasted less than 18 months and 5,000 kms before squeaking.
In short, I'm willing to try "whitebox" parts if the price difference is great enough or the parts store can tell me who makes the part, but in general, I'll pay the extra $5 or $10 to get the brand name. I save money on labour by doing it myself.
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