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Car repair question (?)

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sarasota

New member
Apr 29, 2002
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right here
Two problems:

1) Crunching noise in front end.

2) Engine ticks.

I have a Honda that is four years old. When I first bought I had some problems with a or the front strut(s), one actually lost all its fluid. I was told that this was why the front end crunched when I made turned and the car bounced at the same time, and later after the strut replacement did not address the problem, I was told it was the springs and they put in some type of wedges. The crunch never stopped and I just decided to live with it. It only happens when the temperature is forty degrees (F) or so. However, it seemd like it was getting worse, took it in again, and they tell me a strut is leaking but they do not see any other problems. Honda admits to having had a bad lot of struts four years ago and offers to replace the present struts for free, but I would pay $225 US for labor. Think its worth it and/or it will clear up the problem?

The other problem is began last February. The car engine will tick from time to time after starting whether its a cold start or a start after being turned off for twenty minutes or so. Someone mentioned synthetic oil, but Honda said not a good idea. They recommend a valve adjustment. The tick occurs intermittently so I have never dropped it off at the dealers. Think the valves need adjustment or should I just live with it?

Part of the reason I ask is that so often I have paid for repairs that turn out to be a waste of time and money and still have had the problems. Sometimes it seems better to just live with things as long as I am comfortable that I am not making matters worse by ingonoring them.

Are struts expensive?

Thanks in advance:)
 
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papasmerf

New member
Oct 22, 2002
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For the tick check the oil for antifreeze


For the struts Change them
at 225 dollars where can you buy a car for that?
 
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poorboy

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2001
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I'll address the easy one first.

I believe that Hondas still use solid lifters, in which case the valve lash has to be adjusted. Valve lash is the distance between the lifter and rocker arm. This is the probable source of your ticking problem. As the car warms up, the parts expand to reach acceptable tolerances, so the noise disappears. So if the valve lash has never been adjusted, you need to take it in for that.

As for the crunching sound up front, when does it happen? When you turn the wheel or hit a bump?

If the crunching occurs when you turn the wheel, it is probably the strut bearing at the top that allows the assembly to rotate.

If it is when the car hits a bump, it could be many problems. You usually don't see oil because almost all struts are gas charged and only have a little bit of oil for dampening. It is possible to blow the gas charge and still not see oil. There are several designs of struts. Some use a cartridge that drops in the assembly which contains oil for cooling and dampening. If the cartridge blows its charge, it bounces around in the assembly.
Another possible cause could be a rubber bushing could have worn out or fallen out.

The clunking could also be caused by other suspension components, so you need to get it checked out if it bothers you. In all cases, the strut needs to come out of the car to change the part.

I would avoid the dealer and find a good independent. The car is old enough that full information should have filtered down to them.

Keep in mind when you change out a strut, you usually need an alignment. At least 50% of the time you need to use an oxy acetlyene torch to heat up the bolts that hold the bottom of the struts in. You also need a spring compressor to remove the spring for transferring over to the new strut and a tie rod fork to separate the steering from the strut, so $225 may not be too bad.
 
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baci2004

Bad girl Luv'r
Mar 21, 2004
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At the range!!!
sarasota- poorboy is right about the valves, it's almost definetly that. Get'em done it's not that expensive.

The crunch...if it happens when you turn it may be the CV joints (constant velocity). They are what connects the drive shafts (front wheel drive) to the transmission and to the wheels. If the rubber boot around them gets torn (can happen quite easily) they will eventually lose their lubricant and start to rust or wear rapidly. If you pull your car up onto the curb you can check them for yourself.

Good luck
 
A

auto doctor

New member
Aug 25, 2004
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In a Korn field
www.korn.com
Sarasota,

Your crunch noise could be anything. Try to find a heavy person to push down on the cars front fender vigously. See if you can get the car to make the noise. I have found some times it is the hub cap that is the culprit. so take them off and drive a while see what happens.

As for your engine tick. If it was a valve problem the noise would be pronounce on cold start ups. Intermitten valve noise I have never heard of such a thing. Once the valve is F**k or cam it does not stop making noise. It is a steady noise.

If you think the noise originates in the engine itself. Try using a solid bar steel rod or large screwdriver and listen for engine noise by placing the bar on the engine head and to your ear. Takes a bit of relocating on the engine to get a sense for the noise.

Good luck
 
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kooley

meh
Oct 7, 2002
1,230
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toronto
poorboy said:

If the crunching occurs when you turn the wheel, it is probably the strut bearing at the top that allows the assembly to rotate.
Click to expand...
This car does not have bearings it uses an upper an lower control arm and the strut stays in its position at all times
 
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poorboy

Well-known member
Aug 18, 2001
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kooley said:
This car does not have bearings it uses an upper an lower control arm and the strut stays in its position at all times
Click to expand...
No upper control arms anymore on Civics starting in 2001.

http://motortrend.com/roadtests/coupe/112_0010_civic/index1.html

"Shortening the Civic also necessitating revising the suspension. Instead of redesigning the tried and true (and more expensive) double-wishbone arrangement, Honda elected to jump on the MacPherson-strut bandwagon."

Sarasota, I reread your original post. If the dealer is willing to give you new struts for free, take it. It's a fairly big job to change out struts. Aftermarket struts for a domestic (which tend to be better and cheaper than original equipment) range from $75 to $100 Cdn each. My guess is for Honda parts, it would cost the same or more.
 
Last edited:
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Goober Mcfly

Retired. -ish
Oct 26, 2001
10,125
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NE
sarasota said:
Two problems:

1) Crunching noise in front end.

2) Engine ticks.
Click to expand...
You dumbass, you ran over a guy with a time-bomb strapped to his chest! Run away from the car fast!
 
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