I will give you a tip. Because it's you. If you have a cross bar tire iron , keep a 2 foot length of metal pipe in your trunk. probably 2' diameter is adequate. Slip that over one of the "arms" of the cross to increase leverage on the lug nuts when you are pulling to unthread the lug nuts. The extra torque will make lug nuts come off like butter.
Are you a handyman?
- Thread starter dognutz
- Start date
Things in life aren’t that difficult to repair, it’s only the first time you do it by yourself it scares the crap out of you. You mentioned you hit the brakes and they went down to the floor to things one when you did the brakes pushed the cylinder or piston back into the caliper but the brake pads on the back bolted everything up went inside the car started it and when you tried the brakes and went straight to the floor. That’s normal because you have to move the pads closer to the rotor next time start the car in park pump the pedal until firmness develops LOL. The second could because by air in the hydraulic system so far I’ve only replaced two calipers in my lifetime the minute you opened the hydraulic system hose line caliper etc. you have to bleed the system to get the air out. And yes it does save money the dealership quoted me 3200 for the front and 2800 for the rear, must be on crack or something. Anyways went on eBay for rotors pads all the way around delivered to the front door for 450 an hour and ½ for actual repair. The only thing you really have to watch out for the neighbourhood is watching you, Oh can you have a look at my car the brakes are given the problems. My answer to that is either you or I get the parts and it’s $100 an hour, I’m at that age where I would like to enjoy the finer things in life.
Holy fuck! That is the funniest Red Green skit ever! And he gets everything technically correct!
What a brilliant guy he is! Thanks for sharing that!
Exactly!
It was a lot less expensive and easier to do to just buy the whole calliper new rotors pads everything and having to clean up the old ones, etc
But I can understand those who don’t really understand the system messing it up. Especially the way the springs and clips go on. For those with the mechanical inclination there is a lot of highly vehicle specific videos on YouTube.
I’d also recommend taking pictures at every single stage of disassembly because it’s easy to forget things came apart or have leftover parts!
I keep a 24" breaker bar in my vehicles to change tires. I never had any problems breaking the nuts loose. There is even a 36" breaker bar that gives you even more leverage.
I keep a 24" breaker bar in my vehicles to change tires. I never had any problems breaking the nuts loose. There is even a 36" breaker bar that gives you even more leverage.
Don't you use a torque wrench? Most wheel nuts require 75-90 ft lbs. I also give them a once around a hundred or two km later in case anything worked loose.
Although very uncommon, overtightening them repeatedly stretches the stud and can lead to failure.
I use a Cdn Tire corded electric impact gun. They come on salle quite often.
If you have one of the more powerful cordless impact drivers they work too. Just get a Hex to 1/2" adapter. My Milwaukee M18. Fuel will change all four tires on a 5.0AH battery. BUt I do use the torque wrench for the final 1/4 turn.
I'm with angrymime666 on this one... YouTube. You just need to filter out the BS. Read some comments. I've got a still running dishwasher that normally would have been replaced 10 years ago. Actually a LOT of appliances I've fixed because I hate this "throw away" world we live in!
I'm a gearhead (torn down and rebuilt car) so not much I can't do on cars and with the last brake job bill on partner's car, I'm going back to doing a lot of work myself. Renovated kitchen and both bathrooms. Back patio stone work. Like a few of you, I grew up with little money and a dad who learned everything on his own and taught us the basics of what tools you need. Acquired many more over the years. I think like most things, you're either INTO it, or you're not.
But roofing?! FUCK THAT!
I'm a gearhead (torn down and rebuilt car) so not much I can't do on cars and with the last brake job bill on partner's car, I'm going back to doing a lot of work myself. Renovated kitchen and both bathrooms. Back patio stone work. Like a few of you, I grew up with little money and a dad who learned everything on his own and taught us the basics of what tools you need. Acquired many more over the years. I think like most things, you're either INTO it, or you're not.
But roofing?! FUCK THAT!
That was kind of the point that I was driving at. Why not try to fix something instead of diagnosing it as broke when all that may be at fault is the wiring. Which in the example provided seems to point to getting a repairman to look at it. Throwing the baby out with the bathwater isn't necessarily the intelligent solution. Might still be a perfectly good motor.
So dear wife called me at work Wednesday to decry that the oven would not come on and she had a roasting pan full of pork chops all breaded and spiced ready to go.
I came home early, popped a big cast iron pot on the stove top, added a bit of shortening to be sure it was seasoned and half an inch of water and loaded the pork chops in. Top fits well, so sort of a steam bath.
Every few minutes I rotated the bottom one to the top.
Then left on low for 15 minutes so to be sure all was cooked through, Pork came out nice and moist and tasty. Will definitely try cooking that way again.
Then after dinner dishes away and left overs stored, look to the oven.
Based on my history with gas appliances, having fixed the bbq, clothes dryer, and furnace over the years, I went to the ignitor first. It measured about 260 ohms cold, so maybe a bit high but not open. Loose terminal on the gas solenoid lead so I crimp that a bit tighter. Solenoid measures a few ohms, seems right. Try firing it. Still a no go. So no smoking gun so far.
So I get voltmeter leads hooked up to look at power in the plug at the bottom inside of the oven that powers the circuit. Weirdly fluctuating values, never over 30v, and I was expecting 120V when I set the controller to turn the oven on.
So I had been up since 4:30am that morning, with a proposal to write at work on my mind. So logic was thin for me by 7:50pm. So sleep on the problem.
Next morning I peel the oven controller out so could probe the control signal, right where it leaves the controller.
Same wonky voltage.
Pry the control pc board gently out of its holding housing to look at the foil side.
Aha.
Modest black burn marks showing a bad solder pin to foil joint on the relay load terminal.
Out to the solder station setup in my shed.
Add extra rosin to clean the joint then resolder it.
Reassemble and bingo, back in business.
Much nicer than the $300 cost of the replacement part I had researched the night before
I came home early, popped a big cast iron pot on the stove top, added a bit of shortening to be sure it was seasoned and half an inch of water and loaded the pork chops in. Top fits well, so sort of a steam bath.
Every few minutes I rotated the bottom one to the top.
Then left on low for 15 minutes so to be sure all was cooked through, Pork came out nice and moist and tasty. Will definitely try cooking that way again.
Then after dinner dishes away and left overs stored, look to the oven.
Based on my history with gas appliances, having fixed the bbq, clothes dryer, and furnace over the years, I went to the ignitor first. It measured about 260 ohms cold, so maybe a bit high but not open. Loose terminal on the gas solenoid lead so I crimp that a bit tighter. Solenoid measures a few ohms, seems right. Try firing it. Still a no go. So no smoking gun so far.
So I get voltmeter leads hooked up to look at power in the plug at the bottom inside of the oven that powers the circuit. Weirdly fluctuating values, never over 30v, and I was expecting 120V when I set the controller to turn the oven on.
So I had been up since 4:30am that morning, with a proposal to write at work on my mind. So logic was thin for me by 7:50pm. So sleep on the problem.
Next morning I peel the oven controller out so could probe the control signal, right where it leaves the controller.
Same wonky voltage.
Pry the control pc board gently out of its holding housing to look at the foil side.
Aha.
Modest black burn marks showing a bad solder pin to foil joint on the relay load terminal.
Out to the solder station setup in my shed.
Add extra rosin to clean the joint then resolder it.
Reassemble and bingo, back in business.
Much nicer than the $300 cost of the replacement part I had researched the night before
Kitchen microwave stopped making heat this am.
I have checked it out.
I am used to fixing them in the lunch room at the office often.
All door switches are ok,
no fuse blown,
primary of transformer ok.
So looks like either a fault in the TX HV side ( no smell or chars of burns sensed, though)
Or tube finally gave up.
Thought back and it is 28 years old, being used multiple times a day.
So if it finally gave up, it does not owe us anything.
I fished the prior one from its home downstairs.
I fixed the fuse in it a week many years ago.
After my wife bought this now dead one.
The trusty older one lived in the basement laundry room
To heat darkroom chemicals when I mix 'em, or to make soap from scratch.
On more often to heat the kids midnight meals when gaming in the adjacent family room where one often sleeps now.
It also forced me to look to see what I had stashed in the garage upper shelves.
I used to have a spare microwave there from when an office closed.
But I now recall giving it to a co worker when he moved out on his own.
So we pulled out of the attic and decided to thrift off:
2 2 slice and 2 4 slice toaster
2 electric kettles.
One toaster oven.
Oh, and we kept one of each of the above as spares for if one of our kids ever move out.
I have checked it out.
I am used to fixing them in the lunch room at the office often.
All door switches are ok,
no fuse blown,
primary of transformer ok.
So looks like either a fault in the TX HV side ( no smell or chars of burns sensed, though)
Or tube finally gave up.
Thought back and it is 28 years old, being used multiple times a day.
So if it finally gave up, it does not owe us anything.
I fished the prior one from its home downstairs.
I fixed the fuse in it a week many years ago.
After my wife bought this now dead one.
The trusty older one lived in the basement laundry room
To heat darkroom chemicals when I mix 'em, or to make soap from scratch.
On more often to heat the kids midnight meals when gaming in the adjacent family room where one often sleeps now.
It also forced me to look to see what I had stashed in the garage upper shelves.
I used to have a spare microwave there from when an office closed.
But I now recall giving it to a co worker when he moved out on his own.
So we pulled out of the attic and decided to thrift off:
2 2 slice and 2 4 slice toaster
2 electric kettles.
One toaster oven.
Oh, and we kept one of each of the above as spares for if one of our kids ever move out.
Karma smiled.
Tested the old microwave controller the day after it stopped heating.
Unplugged the transformer that feeds the heater tube, and put a voltmeter across leads that are that used to feed the HV tx.
Plugged it into a GFCI extension cord.
Controller works fine. Power is being switched on to feed the TX.
So problem is on the HV side- likely capacitor or tube. So I am not going to even touch that stuff. Its off for scrapping.
I took the car and dropped a pal home that had bussed over earlier for coffee at noon.
And there next to his house on the curb is a unloved looking microwave and toaster oven.
Haul the microwave to the back yard, degrease it some, and then cover off to look for any major damage before I will plug it in.
No blown fuse, good power cord, door switches all work fine.
So I put a half a litre of water in a jug inside the oven compartment, closed the door and plug the unit in.
No excitement, so a good first step.
Set the clock. Display and keys seem to work.
Tell it to heat for 30 seconds. Push start.
Hear the tube starting, turntable motor moves, fan motor spins fan fine and light comes on. All looking good.
Finish the 30 seconds and water feels measurable warmer.
So finish the clean and move it down to the laundry room as our backup unit.
Put two shim shingles the right height under one side at the front to level it, as it is missing one foot.
The toaster oven at first blush seems to work.
Gobs of goop to clean it, so spray and let the chems work.
Then scrape worst with a dull knife before scouring pad finish.
Full clean up is slated after dark tonight.
So I can easily see if all of the 4 glowing element tubes will light up.
Tested the old microwave controller the day after it stopped heating.
Unplugged the transformer that feeds the heater tube, and put a voltmeter across leads that are that used to feed the HV tx.
Plugged it into a GFCI extension cord.
Controller works fine. Power is being switched on to feed the TX.
So problem is on the HV side- likely capacitor or tube. So I am not going to even touch that stuff. Its off for scrapping.
I took the car and dropped a pal home that had bussed over earlier for coffee at noon.
And there next to his house on the curb is a unloved looking microwave and toaster oven.
Haul the microwave to the back yard, degrease it some, and then cover off to look for any major damage before I will plug it in.
No blown fuse, good power cord, door switches all work fine.
So I put a half a litre of water in a jug inside the oven compartment, closed the door and plug the unit in.
No excitement, so a good first step.
Set the clock. Display and keys seem to work.
Tell it to heat for 30 seconds. Push start.
Hear the tube starting, turntable motor moves, fan motor spins fan fine and light comes on. All looking good.
Finish the 30 seconds and water feels measurable warmer.
So finish the clean and move it down to the laundry room as our backup unit.
Put two shim shingles the right height under one side at the front to level it, as it is missing one foot.
The toaster oven at first blush seems to work.
Gobs of goop to clean it, so spray and let the chems work.
Then scrape worst with a dull knife before scouring pad finish.
Full clean up is slated after dark tonight.
So I can easily see if all of the 4 glowing element tubes will light up.
For a regular brake job (replacing pads and rotors) there is no need to bleed the brakes.
All you need to do is push the pistons back into the calipers with a C clamp or pair of channel locks. When done, pump the brake pedal a few times about 2 thirds of the way down. Then take it out for a spin and follow the procedure to bed the rotors and voila.
I'm very handy.
I have built a house in the past, largely by myself. Hired the odd trade where I needed it done faster than I could do it myself. I can do just about anything. It's easier to say what I won't do:
1. Roofs. Not any more.
2. HVAC, I could install a furnace or boiler, but I don't know how to configure it or set up the controls. I'm not big on a full blown tin job either.
3. I don't operate heavy machinery.
4. I don't build forms, though I do design them.
5. I don't place and finish concrete.
6. I don't lay brick or block (that's a lot harder than you might think.) But I will labour with the Mason.
7. Not big on garage door rotational springs as I value my fingers being attached.
But everything else I will do myself.
I just find it really hard to find a contractor who knows what he's doing. Most have no clue.
And cars? On an older car, I will take on anything. I've done frame offs before. But the new stuff? Some stuff I will take on. But cars are getting very complicated now.
I have built a house in the past, largely by myself. Hired the odd trade where I needed it done faster than I could do it myself. I can do just about anything. It's easier to say what I won't do:
1. Roofs. Not any more.
2. HVAC, I could install a furnace or boiler, but I don't know how to configure it or set up the controls. I'm not big on a full blown tin job either.
3. I don't operate heavy machinery.
4. I don't build forms, though I do design them.
5. I don't place and finish concrete.
6. I don't lay brick or block (that's a lot harder than you might think.) But I will labour with the Mason.
7. Not big on garage door rotational springs as I value my fingers being attached.
But everything else I will do myself.
I just find it really hard to find a contractor who knows what he's doing. Most have no clue.
And cars? On an older car, I will take on anything. I've done frame offs before. But the new stuff? Some stuff I will take on. But cars are getting very complicated now.
When it comes to cars, once I found a local mechanic I could trust, I stopped doing all car repairs... Even oil changes.
His prices are reasonable considering the time and effort and specialty tools that he has at the ready. Removing a rusted wheel hub without legitimate shop tools is an absolute bitch.
(Stealerships are evil)
His prices are reasonable considering the time and effort and specialty tools that he has at the ready. Removing a rusted wheel hub without legitimate shop tools is an absolute bitch.
(Stealerships are evil)
Similar to above... I absolutely despise drywalling, especially mudding and taping.
Once I found a taper, I had no problem paying. (I did the board work).
I'm good at carpentry, so I do that.
Once I found a taper, I had no problem paying. (I did the board work).
I'm good at carpentry, so I do that.
Where I live, in the country, it's hard to find someone to do small repair jobs. I had a small plumbing repair that needed doing when I had no time to do it. I called 3 plumbers but none showed up. The repair had to wait until I had time to do it myself. Another job, the bathroom taps needed to be replaced. I put the job off for a long time because I knew the old galvanized pipes would be seized up. When I finally got at the job it wasn't as hard as I feared. Still need to replace the old, ugly drain pipe.
I repaired 2 areas in an old stone wall with concrete blocks. I built a garden shed.
I do as many machinery and car repairs as I can.
I repaired 2 areas in an old stone wall with concrete blocks. I built a garden shed.
I do as many machinery and car repairs as I can.
