How do I find out the gauges of a wire???
- Thread starter Jenesis
- Start date
This is a fun rabbit hole to delve down into... Marine tin-coated copper, heavy gauge and terminal blocks... You can create a great set-up. Jumper cables are the ghetto choice..
@Jenesis Do you have a fishing and sex session offered? It has been a long time so I need practice at both. I'll bring my boat.
@Jenesis Do you have a fishing and sex session offered? It has been a long time so I need practice at both. I'll bring my boat.
What holds any of us back is our willingness to try. The science is simple. You just have to find the parts and have the tools. I would think @Jenesis with the boobs and ass could get a guy to crimp her wire with ease...Nope. Man here. But know jackshit about fixing anything. Infact I had to google many of the terms you used like "O-ring connector", "Heat shrink connector" etc. I have seen them. Just didn't know the name. And the kicker is that I have an electrical engineering degree.
Bro... You don't need that guy. You can do it! @Jenesis is waiting...
Hope you have a Fire Extinguisher (rated for Electrical fires) on your fishing boat!I think I know who you are talking about. There eventually ended up being a recall. I had a dash board fire. Which was fucked because I was on my way to the hospital when it happened. I was just down the street from my house, so my BF at the time, ran back to the house for the fire extinguisher and I called 911.
Then left him there and called a cab to the hospital.
I had another car fire on the 401. Had to cross 4 lanes of traffic ( the merge lane as well) with my hood on fire. That was fucked. Now I drive with an extinguisher in the car. LOL.
I respect your git 'er done spunkiness but your repair is not correct if the total cord length is any longer than it was originally. I'm not going to get into "Ohms Law" but I will uuse an electric heater as an example.
Notice the thin wire filaments in the heater glow red hot but the cord you plug into the wall doesn't? That's because the more you increase the length of a wire increases the resistance. And the hotter the wire the more resistance. It is a vicous circle. And an imperfect electrical connection can double the resistance of the assembled cable. A 12v trolling motor pulls a suprising amount of current. Try running the motor for half an hour and feel the connection and anywhere along the wiire.. If is notably warm to the touch that's not good.
If it was just some open Tinnie 12' alum boat with a 9.9 and a trolling motor with the battery a few feet away, with the cables out in the open, that's one thing. But if this cable runs inside some enclosued area it realliy is a recipe for disaster.
For the cost of two or three of your famous blowjobs
you can buy a nice new trolling motor and not risk your 200 fucks boat burning up like you car did because of ONE undersized electrical switch.! And you can sell the old one on Kijiji for $100 as being in working condition to someone who knows how to take apart the motor and replace the cobbled up cable from the terminals right in the motor itself!
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You have to know why the wire just all of the sudden got hot and started to smoke. If it did not do it before then the gauge of the wire is correct.
Is there a short circuit in the wire? Was the wire only twisted together without soldering or have the proper crimps? Is there a short circuit in the motor? These things all have to be checked out.
Is there a short circuit in the wire? Was the wire only twisted together without soldering or have the proper crimps? Is there a short circuit in the motor? These things all have to be checked out.
She said she used "stew on" connectors and then covered them in electrical tape.
While tasty, if these "stew on" connectors were Marrette type, they'd have to be the HUGE *Dark* Blue ones to maybe work. IIRC, max size wire for these is 2 pcs 8 gauge. And if everything does fit, you better dit it right or there will be a lot of resistance there.
To crimp on a barrel connector to 6 g booster cables you'd need a big cable crimping press that looks like big Bolt Cutters. And you'd melt the insulation if you tried to solder 6 g wire. And if they are cheap booster cables they are not pure copper. They are CCA (Copper Clad Aluminum Core) and that doesn't solder for shit.
The right way to do it if @Jenesis wants to try, is to look for a video on YouTube or otherwise figure out how to open up the trolling motor and replace the entire cable. But I think they are pretty well sealed being in a marine envirnment etc.
I
Yes. In doing my research, I found this out and will be putting in a fuse with I put in the switch. Most switches come fused.
NO switches do not come fused, a switch is a on - off , and a fuse limits ( fusible link)the amount of amp going thru.
You can get combination Switch/Circuit Breakers. They work like the Circuit Breakers in your house.
but even for the smallest 30lb trolling motor needs a 30A breaker. And Minn Kota even says not to extend the wires on them, at all.
And so if her primary wires on hers are 10 gauge, then she has a 30 lb thrust motor. She'll need a 30A SwitchBreaker like this. $35 on Amazon. But according to the Minn Kota website you are not supposed to extend the wires on that small motor anyways.
Is he does want to replace it and it is only 30lbs thrust, they are $189 at SAIL in Oshawa https://www.sail.ca/en/minnkota-endura-c2-trolling-motor-30-lb-1349457-24-004540001
CONDUCTOR GAUGE AND CIRCUIT BREAKER SIZING TABLE
This conductor and circuit breaker sizing table are only valid for the following assumptions:
- No more than 2 conductors are bundled together inside of a sheath or conduit outside of engine spaces.
- Each conductor has 105° C temp-rated insulation.
- No more than 3% voltage drop allowed at full motor power based on published product power requirements
| 5 FT | 10 FT | 15 FT | 20 FT | 25 FT | |||
| MOTOR THRUST/MODEL | MAX AMP DRAW | CIRCUIT BREAKER | WIRE EXTENSION LENGTH | ||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 30 lb. | 30 | 30 Amp @ 12 VDC | DO NOT EXTEND* | DO NOT EXTEND* | DO NOT EXTEND* | DO NOT EXTEND* | DO NOT EXTEND* |
| 40 lb., 45 lb. | 42 | 50 Amp @ 12 VDC | 8 AWG | 6 AWG | 4 AWG | 2 AWG | 2 AWG |
The ones I’m looking at seem to. They have a fuse right in the them.
For example, I will be using this switch for the bilge, lights and fish finder.
It comes with a fuse.
The single switch seems like it would need its own external fuse. The trolling motor would need a 50amp. It is a 55lb
At least I think this is right. What do I know? LOL.
The motor is working with the proper connectors now on and no spliced wiring.
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I’m old fashion I prefer a separate switch and a separate fuse the reason being a switch might get damaged you have to replace it go to any automotive parts or even Home Depot for a switch as for fuses almost everybody has him, mind you the old-fashioned quarter inch diameter glass fuses they’re getting a little bit rare not impossible yet. Yes for convenience that paneled that you showed nice easy for installation question you have to ask yourself is it easy to repair and are parts available. As for automatic resetting circuit breakers no thanks had a shop teacher when I was going to school was aiming for 250,000 miles on his Oldsmobile well it and get their the car caught fire it seems he was having a problem with the circuit breaker on the power window and it would automatically reset and it would work fail reset work and failed will finally it went up in flames. If the fuse blows it’s indicating something is wrong and you might look at as a safety switch find out why the fuse blew and corrected. Oh and on a side note about six years ago I was working with a licensed electrician, I did not have an extension cord so I asked him if he could lend me his extension cord, yes he came back and I shipped you not it was 18gauge speaker wire about 50 feet long. And that’s a person you want to rewire your house for insurance purposes.
@jimieboe and @The Mechanic
I bought the switch I listed above. You can see in the pics on the product, the diagram for connecting. Am I losing it? Or is there no place for the negative of the accessories being used for each switch? Where does the negative for each accessory go? Or do I need an another negative wire box. (I can’t remember what it is called but I saw one that is just for the negative wires).
any help would be appreciated. I will be looking on YouTube later today. Just don’t have the time right now.
I bought the switch I listed above. You can see in the pics on the product, the diagram for connecting. Am I losing it? Or is there no place for the negative of the accessories being used for each switch? Where does the negative for each accessory go? Or do I need an another negative wire box. (I can’t remember what it is called but I saw one that is just for the negative wires).
any help would be appreciated. I will be looking on YouTube later today. Just don’t have the time right now.
You are correct! You return all Negative* wires to a "Terminal Block/Buss Bar", and then connect that terminal block with a heavier cable to the battery. Negative* is unswitched.
*The black "Negative"polarity side is often referred to as "Ground" in DC (Direct Current) vehicle applications. Not to be confused with the green "Ground" (aka "Earthed") wire in AC (Alternating Current) power used in hoousehold /industrial applications as a path to discharge dangerous short circuits to the earth.
@Jenesis
You probably already know this but your trolling motor needs a separate switch/breaker. That panel only handle 4,3 AMPs and your trolling motor needs like 30-50A depending on the wire gauge, which depends on the length. a NOT what it says on the motor.
www.omnicalculator.com
You probably already know this but your trolling motor needs a separate switch/breaker. That panel only handle 4,3 AMPs and your trolling motor needs like 30-50A depending on the wire gauge, which depends on the length. a NOT what it says on the motor.
DC Wire Size Calculator
Use our DC Wire Size Calculator to know the wire size needed for your DC electric application.
www.omnicalculator.com
