Wet Basement needs repair........

Oh man, you can't be serious - using shingles to divert the water. That guy should be arrested.

Listen, there's only one way as far as I am concerned ever to do a job and that is the right way.

You need to dig around the entire perimeter of your house, down to the footings.

You then repair the foundation wall itself. If it's block, you repoint the joints where they are weak or unsound. You then parge the entire surface of the wall. Parge the entire wall right down to the tops of the footings where you cove the mortar to prevent water from sitting on top of the footings (very important) Next you waterproof the wall with a material that meets the Ontario Building Code (You can buy a housing code that is strictly Chapter 9 for around $40.00 I believe.) You then install a drainage mat to allow any ground water to drain down to the weeping tiles. Be sure to hire a very good mason to repoint / parge. Make sure he SOAKS the existing masonry with water orelse your new mortar work will crack when the existing masonry sucks the water right out of the fresh mortar.

Speaking of weeping tile....

If you don't have any, you want to buy the perforated white PVC stuff from home depot (not the black junk wrapped in a sock)

You then install the weepers (holes down!!) with about 6" of crushed limestone (some guys use 3/4 clear limestone), wrapped like a sausage in Geotextile Weave. The subdrains either get connected to the storm sewer (if there is one) or a sump (complete with sump pump). Weepers are installed at the same elevation as the underside of the footings.

You then backfill with a nice free draining material such as Granular B.

You then top it up with about a foot of topsoil.

If you have a poured concrete wall, you repair the wall by removing all loose and unsound concrete. Basically take a hammer to the concrete surface, tap the concrete with the hammer, if you get a nice true ring, the concrete is fine, if you get a dull thud, the concrete is spalling or delaminating and needs to come out and be repaired. Take the time to locate any tie rod parging that may be there and if it's suspect, take it out and repair it.

You then waterproof / drainage mat / insulate same as above.

You can consider installing a Rigid SM insulation on the outside of the drainage mat at the same time, however, you need the correct type with the channels in it, and you need SM that is termite resistant because termites LOVE to tunnel through the stuff and if you make the mistake of lapping your ring joists with it (as so many have) the termites have basically a ramp right into your house.

Termite / styrofoam: http://www.utoronto.ca/forest/termite/ret_dam.htm


I like this guy's waterproofing system.....

http://www.advancedcoatings.on.ca/

(Please note, I have no affliation with this guy, I've seen it on TV and at the home show and was impressed.)

First you need to assess the existing damage. if this has been a long term problem and the walls are finished, you likely have mold in the walls. That is a major problem and needs to be dealt with by a professional.

Next you need to find the cause. It could be so simple as a downspout draining against the foundation with poor surface grading/drainage or it could be a crack in the foundation or it could be poorly installed drainage pipe (big O) around your footings. If your handyman is going to dig a trench, he needs to install a drainage pipe at the level of the footings, and make sure the foundation is free of cracks and properly waterproofed. Just filling it with stones and gravel alone is not a solution.

blueline said:

How deep are the footings?

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Typically in Toronto at least 4 feet down.

The tops of the footings will be just below the underside of your basement floor.

Expect major mulah. I had a quote done for 9-10k.

Here is the Ontario Residential Construction Guide. It's a great document, easy to read with tons of helpful hints and a complete copy of Chapter 9 of the OBC. (The OBC being triple the price.)

At the very least, buy this and do some homework.


http://www.orderline.com/detail.asp?group=29

blueline said:

Okay - I have decided to call in a professional. I also think it is best if I get someone reputable who is insured, has refs, who I can check on with the BBB.

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Definitely! This is a major job and you want to make sure that you have someone who's insured and gets the proper permits and so on. Otherwise if something happens (injury, wall caves in .....) guess who's on the hook? You are.

blueline said:

Guess I answered my own question, but I just wanted to find out if that fellow's 'quick fix' method sounded like it would work.

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It will work, but like all quick fixes it will not last like the proper one will, especially if there are cracks in the foundation to be dealt with.

blueline said:

However, with the damage done to the interior walls (wood panelling) it looks like I need more than shingles and stones.

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Don't forget you need to rip out the interior finishing and replace it as it is probably chock full of mold and mildew there now. It will also give you a chance to see where the water has been infiltrating from (crack in the wall) that should also be patched up on the inside.

you should not need permits for the repair unless you have to do structural work on the basement walls. A first step is to have a look at the area where it is leaking above ground. See if the grade around the house is sloping toward the house or away. If it is toward the house fixing the drainage could solve the problem. Please note I said could it probably will not given the amount of water you had.

Next step strip away the interior wall to concrete or block what ever you have look for damage.

If you can see thew damage and it is below grade you have to dig if the damage is above grade you can fix it with the grading and then repair the damage.

If you have any questions P.M. me.

N.B. the 9 to 10K price was not out of line for a full foundation just so so know where you are at

http://www.deltadrain.com/

see brochures link on page for what the contractor is going to do to ur basement. these guys supply most homebuilders in gta.

yes. it does require a permit as it is part of building envelope and needs to be inspected. however most bldg dept's will i imagine say dont bother w permit.

I had major water in my basement, to the point that the whole subfloor rotted, there were rot holes in the plywood, and the bottom of the panelling was soaked. I pulled up the sub-floor, and there was 1/2" of water pooling when it was wet outside, that would eventually dry. Contractors quote to dig around the entire foundation, but I did not like that option, it was expensive, would destroy all the landscaping, and I was not confident it would work. I did not think that it would work because my yard is always soaked, the water-table is basically at ground level. Even in summer, if you dig down a couple of feet anywhere in the yard, you get water.

So instead I cut a channel along the wet wall in the basement, a couple of inches deep into the cement floor, all the way along to the sump. Now when it is wet, the water immediately drains into the sump. Then I replaced the floor and panelling. It seems to be fine, with no more pooling or mould. It is not ideal, but it seems to work, and it was cheaper and more convenient. We just make sure that we stay on the lookout for any mould.

C Dick said:

I had major water in my basement, to the point that the whole subfloor rotted, there were rot holes in the plywood, and the bottom of the panelling was soaked. I pulled up the sub-floor, and there was 1/2" of water pooling when it was wet outside, that would eventually dry. Contractors quote to dig around the entire foundation, but I did not like that option, it was expensive, would destroy all the landscaping, and I was not confident it would work. I did not think that it would work because my yard is always soaked, the water-table is basically at ground level. Even in summer, if you dig down a couple of feet anywhere in the yard, you get water.

So instead I cut a channel along the wet wall in the basement, a couple of inches deep into the cement floor, all the way along to the sump. Now when it is wet, the water immediately drains into the sump. Then I replaced the floor and panelling. It seems to be fine, with no more pooling or mould. It is not ideal, but it seems to work, and it was cheaper and more convenient. We just make sure that we stay on the lookout for any mould.

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There most likely is mould developing under your floor along the channel you cut. By the time you see it on the surface you will have a huge amount of it.

The other problem is that you haven't stopped the water from infiltrating through your wall. This will continue to weaken your wall over time. If you have as high a water table as you say, then you have a fair amount of pressure on your foundation.

blueline said:

Okay, it looks like i am going to be hiring a contractor to do the work for me. I have 3 coming over within the next few days to give me free quotes. Since I have never had to go this route before, what should I expect from these guys?

What questions should I be asking? What info should I get from each of them? Licensed, insured, obtain references? Should I contact the BBB? Should I ask to see their license and name of insurer? I often read/hear horror stories about contractors screwing home owners because something wasn't in writing or some information wasn't communicated. I just want to make sure I know exactly what they are going to do and what I can do if they don't do it.

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- get a detailed written quote. It should specify what materials are to be used (ie what type of sealer/membrane/backfill......), who's responsible for getting the permits (required in Hamilton anyways), how much has to be restored (repaving driveway, fixing patios, resodding). The more details you nail down in the quote the better your odds of getting the job you want done in the way you want it to be.

- Get 3 to 5 references and check them out.

- Get in touch with Consumer and Commercial Relations, they record complaints against companies by upset consumers.

- Make sure they carry insurance and make them prove it.

- WSIB (formerly WCB) coverage is a must. Get prove they are up to date on their payments or or you could be responsible for injured workers.

- Make sure they have a valid registration number (GST#) with Revenue Canada.

- Talk to their suppliers, do they pay their bills, if not, you may be sued or have liens applied against your home for outstanding product accounts or employee payrolls not paid by your contractor that were used on your project.

- Check with the Ministry of the Attorney General (Small Claims Court) to see if they have been involved in litigation. Make sure you qualify the results of this search, many times the problems resulting in court action are a result of the home owner not understanding what they are purchasing.

Protect Yourself...Its your money, you have a choice!

Check out this site.

They do foundation leak repair, coatings and drainage and such.


http://www.wetbasements.com/

Moraff said:

- get a detailed written quote. It should specify what materials are to be used (ie what type of sealer/membrane/backfill......), who's responsible for getting the permits (required in Hamilton anyways), how much has to be restored (repaving driveway, fixing patios, resodding). The more details you nail down in the quote the better your odds of getting the job you want done in the way you want it to be.

- Get 3 to 5 references and check them out.

- Get in touch with Consumer and Commercial Relations, they record complaints against companies by upset consumers.

- Make sure they carry insurance and make them prove it.

- WSIB (formerly WCB) coverage is a must. Get prove they are up to date on their payments or or you could be responsible for injured workers.

- Make sure they have a valid registration number (GST#) with Revenue Canada.

- Talk to their suppliers, do they pay their bills, if not, you may be sued or have liens applied against your home for outstanding product accounts or employee payrolls not paid by your contractor that were used on your project.

- Check with the Ministry of the Attorney General (Small Claims Court) to see if they have been involved in litigation. Make sure you qualify the results of this search, many times the problems resulting in court action are a result of the home owner not understanding what they are purchasing.

Protect Yourself...Its your money, you have a choice!

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Very good points.

If I remember correctly, if he has the materials delivered to your house by the supplier, the supplier can put a lien against YOUR house. (Suppliers like to do this, i.e. deliver to the site because they have something they can put a lien against.)

C Dick said:

I had major water in my basement, to the point that the whole subfloor rotted, there were rot holes in the plywood, and the bottom of the panelling was soaked. I pulled up the sub-floor, and there was 1/2" of water pooling when it was wet outside, that would eventually dry. Contractors quote to dig around the entire foundation, but I did not like that option, it was expensive, would destroy all the landscaping, and I was not confident it would work. I did not think that it would work because my yard is always soaked, the water-table is basically at ground level. Even in summer, if you dig down a couple of feet anywhere in the yard, you get water.

So instead I cut a channel along the wet wall in the basement, a couple of inches deep into the cement floor, all the way along to the sump. Now when it is wet, the water immediately drains into the sump. Then I replaced the floor and panelling. It seems to be fine, with no more pooling or mould. It is not ideal, but it seems to work, and it was cheaper and more convenient. We just make sure that we stay on the lookout for any mould.

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As I previously stated, there are two ways to do a job.

The right way and the wrong way.

This is the wrong way.

Even if the water table is high, you can control water from ingressing.