I was wondering if it was ok to set a fence post in a mildly wet soil/dirt. I'm putting the fence post in a building form/tube and pouring concrete. 32 inches high and 8 inches wide for the tube plus a 4x4 fence post.
setting fence posts
- Thread starter newtohobby
- Start date
That's fine, but I'd go down 42" below grade. If you're above the frost line, you're in trouble. And definitely use the tube, as it will provide a smooth surface frost can't grab on to.
48" is the "common" frost line for around southern ontario. Farther north you have to go deeper.
I have heard good and bad about concrete and fence posts. Are they pressure treated? Seems since the concrete is porous, it traps moisture next to the wood and I have replaced many that have rotted completely away.
I did some a couple of weeks ago just setting into the dirt with gravel at the bottom for drainage. Will advise as to how long they last (more or less than setting in concrete).
I have heard good and bad about concrete and fence posts. Are they pressure treated? Seems since the concrete is porous, it traps moisture next to the wood and I have replaced many that have rotted completely away.
I did some a couple of weeks ago just setting into the dirt with gravel at the bottom for drainage. Will advise as to how long they last (more or less than setting in concrete).
48" is correct use cedar posts, thats what all the farmers use to keep cattle in, they'll last a long long time.
As long as you are 4 ft (48" minimum) below grade your footing is fine if it's attached to a permenant structure and to code for Ontario. You can sink the concrete in water or soil the conditions don't really matter as loing as the concrete sets up inside the tube. Don't put the PT wood inside the concrete - use galvanized post anchors http://www.tamlyn.com/index_files/PostAnchors.htm available at all RONA and Home Depot for about $5 each and put it in the concrete then attach the PT 4x4 to the post anchor.
That's what I thought ^^^^ but sakrete says differently.....weird.
I even thought of coating the bottom of the posts with a waterproofing material (like foundation coating) before setting the concrete. I don't do many so I don't worry too much about it but it's good to know.....
I even thought of coating the bottom of the posts with a waterproofing material (like foundation coating) before setting the concrete. I don't do many so I don't worry too much about it but it's good to know.....
yup, and if you want nice firm gates themselves there are gate "kits" with heavy reinforcing brackets that work awesome. (and don't forget the Z brace to keep the gate square).sailorsix said:Use 6" x 6" for the gate posts. An old friend in Ottawa, who owned a fencing compnay, was being killed in the 80's by heaving gates. He switched to 6x6 and solved his problems.
There are certain codes and by-laws you MUST follow in Ontario.Brill said:You guys use concrete and sono tubes for a basic fence post?
That's overkill, imagine if ranchers did the same with their thousands of acres.
For your safety and your neighbours.
Sure if you live in the middle of Hickville, Saskatchewan pop. 14 including cows then you can put up a fence post with play-doh if you want but in most urban areas of Ontario you must be specific or risk fines and/or deconstruction.
Check out the miles of fences in any Ontario subdivision and I'll bet most don't use concrete and sono tubes.dj1470 said:There are certain codes and by-laws you MUST follow in Ontario.
For your safety and your neighbours.
Sure if you live in the middle of Hickville, Saskatchewan pop. 14 including cows then you can put up a fence post with play-doh if you want but in most urban areas of Ontario you must be specific or risk fines and/or deconstruction.
Building codes and bylaws don't mention them for fences either.
I suggest you pour the cement 32 inches down not above the surface.newtohobby said:I was wondering if it was ok to set a fence post in a mildly wet soil/dirt. I'm putting the fence post in a building form/tube and pouring concrete. 32 inches high and 8 inches wide for the tube plus a 4x4 fence post.
I sunk over 200 posts for horse paddocks at my place, no concrete used and after 2 winters I have no problems at all. Auger the holes to at least 4 feet and pack the earth back in the hole around the post. Use something long (3-4ft.) with a flat end and pound it in well. Next spring just fill any gaps around the posts with more soil. All should be good
Had to sink some in fairly wet soil this way, they aren't quite as solid but more than adaquate.
Had to sink some in fairly wet soil this way, they aren't quite as solid but more than adaquate.
tried that but after 30 or 40 posts my pecker was raw and my hips hurt like hell.hvacman said:Use something long (3-4ft.) with a flat end and pound it in well. Next spring just fill any gaps around the posts with more soil. All should be good
Did feel better after lunch.
Has anyone ever used the concrete forms that you place the 4x4 in and that sits on the grass etc? Wouldnt they SINK over time?
I would suggest using the metal stakes sold at Home Depot. You just pound them in, and insert a 4x4. A gate will require more reinforcement.
If you are going to use concrete, then try the metal brackets to hold a 4x4 above the concrete. I have seen many wood fence posts rot away when placed in concrete. For any basement construction, the recommended technique is to not allow any wood to touch any concrete. I think the same would apply outside too.
If you are going to use concrete, then try the metal brackets to hold a 4x4 above the concrete. I have seen many wood fence posts rot away when placed in concrete. For any basement construction, the recommended technique is to not allow any wood to touch any concrete. I think the same would apply outside too.
poonhunter said:What's the longest post you can get though?
Longest I know of is 16 feet.
