Car Battery
- Thread starter itmeans
- Start date
battery is second one from toyota on a 9yr old car with 130km. was changed a few years ago.tywebb1967 said:
don't believe lights left on.Sentry said:
alternator? how would i know. the radio didn't come on and the sound the ignition made when it didn't start was like a game wheel at a casino, clicking sound.
$200, wow...I can go to Sears, Auto zone, and get most battery's for $100--or less if you want to go cheap. Only the dry cell batterys cost around $200.
I would check Candian Tire, they might charge to install it thou...some are easy, some aren't.
Yes it could be the cables, even where they hook up might need to be wire brushed with baking soda but likely its the battery.
I would check Candian Tire, they might charge to install it thou...some are easy, some aren't.
Yes it could be the cables, even where they hook up might need to be wire brushed with baking soda but likely its the battery.
anon1 said:
Solenoids takes little power to work, the starter motor takes much more juice, so thats why you hear a click....it always clicks when you start it up but most times you can not hear it over the starter motor.
data1960 said:
Battery's can even blow up
they can...its nothing to mess around with, even a weak battery. They are safer than in the past but still can blow or cause a fire.Neg. comes off first and goes on last.
ummmmmmmmmmmS.C. Joe said:Battery's can even blow up
Neg. comes off first and goes on last.
you have that backwards.
You always want to complete the ground on any circuit first. This reduces the risk of you becoming the path to ground.
Tell MSD Ignition that....I'm looking at the instructions of my $400 E-Curve electronic dist I got for my hot rod car....it said quote.....When disconnecting the battery cables, always remove the Negative (-) cable first and install it last.
MSD has been around for over 30 years and is a muti-million dollar company..sure this isn't a mis-print but you could call their tech line and ask them if you don't agree. I do see a spark when putting the neg cable on last but thats how they say to do it. You are to wear safety glasses when working with a battery but I never do
This dist is really nice, has no springs or weights. All the advance curve is done by electronic's. Just by turning 2 rotary switchs you can program a timming curve.
MSD has been around for over 30 years and is a muti-million dollar company..sure this isn't a mis-print but you could call their tech line and ask them if you don't agree. I do see a spark when putting the neg cable on last but thats how they say to do it. You are to wear safety glasses when working with a battery but I never do
This dist is really nice, has no springs or weights. All the advance curve is done by electronic's. Just by turning 2 rotary switchs you can program a timming curve.
If you have a Costco/Price Club membership, check out their Kirkland batteries. They're made by JCI, a large battery manufacturer, and come with a 100 month prorated warranty, AND at a lower price than Canadian Tire/CAA/local dealer.
Its a Dodge Mangum..1978, has just a 318 motor but found MP 360 heads for it off E-bay...the heads are worth $600 + but had a buy it now for $300 and I seen them with in an hour of the listing and jump on them.
Muscle Motors in Lansing Mich milled and ported them lightly--told me they feel those are the best factory style heads short of the newer magnum motors...they woke up that little 318 alright.
Had a custom camshaft grounded for it by Mike Jones in NC--found him on Speedtalk dot com. He does cams for pro racers mainly...this cam idles pretty good and will rev to 6500.
Has 4.10 gears in the rear--gas mileage stinks, lol, headers, MSD 7 box firing the spark plugs, a Demon 650 race double pumper carb feeds the gas to it--off E-bay again, got it off a racing school in NC (forgot the name)...a auto trans but with a manual valve body--lets me shift it like a stick shift..can take off in any gear I like--great in the rain.
Don't know how to post pictures on here but on I have a post about the $400 dist http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=50141.0 and have pictures of the motor..its not a Cuda so I don't post the body pictures but its nice and clean.
Don't
Muscle Motors in Lansing Mich milled and ported them lightly--told me they feel those are the best factory style heads short of the newer magnum motors...they woke up that little 318 alright.
Had a custom camshaft grounded for it by Mike Jones in NC--found him on Speedtalk dot com. He does cams for pro racers mainly...this cam idles pretty good and will rev to 6500.
Has 4.10 gears in the rear--gas mileage stinks, lol, headers, MSD 7 box firing the spark plugs, a Demon 650 race double pumper carb feeds the gas to it--off E-bay again, got it off a racing school in NC (forgot the name)...a auto trans but with a manual valve body--lets me shift it like a stick shift..can take off in any gear I like--great in the rain.
Don't know how to post pictures on here but on I have a post about the $400 dist http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=50141.0 and have pictures of the motor..its not a Cuda so I don't post the body pictures but its nice and clean.
Don't
Papa, PLEASE! You are worried about 12 Volts?papasmerf said:
Good Lord...bunch of wimps.
The first method is correct, since the damage possible is a short to ground.
Which is no big deal except for the possible burn or destruction of your wrench.
