Any photography experts out there?

DGrohl

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Hi everyone,

I'm a photography novice and am looking for some advice.

Ever see the show Departures?
http://www.departuresentertainment.com/about.html

Amazing show about two/three guys traveling the world. The photography/cinematography in the show is unbelievable. Simply beautiful shots - all taken by one guy named Andre Dupuis.

Through a bit of research, I found out that he uses a Panasonic HVX200 video cam...

I'd like to replicate the vividness and epic shots he gets on the show with my Nikon D40. I know it's all about composition, lighting, settings on camera but I'm pretty sure I'm not able to achieve what I'm looking for with the basic lens I've got.

I'm assuming I can do this with a new lens or a filter of some sort?

Can anyone help out?
 

tboy

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Yeah, you're on the right track. The difference between an awesome shot and a snapshot? Your eye.......

Different lens' create different images. Longer lens' tend to flatten the image, shorter lens' tend to make them have more depth.

Lighting: if you're talking exterior you have to know where the sun is. Typically the best place for a nicely lit exterior is to have a morning sun over your right shoulder. Shadows tend to run away from the camera at a slight angle, the sun isn't at it's brightest etc.

Another think you have to look out for is haze. We do get a lot of humidity in the air and that affects the shot. A polarizing filter will help with that. It can rotate to allow you to control how much filtering it does. This was the best filter I ever purchased and rarely took it off my lens'.

Another thing: take a class. Henry's offers workshops and if you're a beginner, you will benefit tremendously.....
 

spitze

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tboy said:
A polarizing filter will help with that. It can rotate to allow you to control how much filtering it does.
You mean a circular polarizing.....

I have been doing photography for 15 years and I only use 1 filer....CPL... no need of more
 

HG Hunter

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tboy said:
Another thing: take a class. Henry's offers workshops and if you're a beginner, you will benefit tremendously.....
I agree.
The workshops at Henry's are great.
 

DGrohl

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So in doing a little research, I've found that a 50mm lens is the closest lens you can get that approximates the human eye.

I've used a polarizing filter as well and they're great...

So will a 50mm let me accomplish what I'm looking for?
 

papasmerf

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for every photo you published a photographer will take hundreds if not thousands to get that perfect shot. I have a D40x the prototype for the d60 and love it.
 

papasmerf

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DGrohl said:
So in doing a little research, I've found that a 50mm lens is the closest lens you can get that approximates the human eye.

I've used a polarizing filter as well and they're great...

So will a 50mm let me accomplish what I'm looking for?
Stock lens on an SLR is a 50mm.

The things that makes a great pic is shutter speed, f stop and film speed.

If you want to get a camera you can play with find yourself a PENTAX K100
 

tboy

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DGrohl said:
So in doing a little research, I've found that a 50mm lens is the closest lens you can get that approximates the human eye.

I've used a polarizing filter as well and they're great...

So will a 50mm let me accomplish what I'm looking for?
50 mm only applies to a 35 mm film camera. I think the "normal" lens for a digital camera is 42 mm.

Oh and I'm not sure if this holds true with the new lens' but back in the day, fixed focal length lens' tended to be sharper and brighter due to less elements (lens') inside and less moving parts (no element movement, just aperature blades).

You will also want to pay attention to the speed of the lens. A faster lens tends to allow better shots in lower light situations.

You will also want to pay attention to what the elements are made of in the lens'. Most (many?) now are made with optical plastic elements where optical glass are infinitely better IMO. Be prepared though: good lens will probably cost you double what your camera alone is worth.
 

fuji

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tboy said:
Oh and I'm not sure if this holds true with the new lens' but back in the day, fixed focal length lens' tended to be sharper and brighter due to less elements (lens') inside and less moving parts (no element movement, just aperature blades).
Fixed lenses are still faster, although with the anti-shake technology in modern lenses you don't always need the speed as badly as you used to. Still true though--several stops faster and for much less cash.
 

moresex4me

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Does that 50 mm lens take into account what digital SLR's cmos chips do? I can't remember the exact ration, but to get to 35 mm, you need to be at something like 27 mm. That's because the chip that captures the light is smaller than 35mm film. If that's the correct ratio, a 50 mm lens would act like a 65 mm lens on a digital camera.

Having said all that, I've read the ratio has changed recently, so check with Nikon... I'd also get a variable focal length lens so it gives you some flexibility.

EDIT: Poon posted "full frame" DSLR's, that's what I was referring to, not sure if your Nikon is one of those. I've got a Canon 20D, so a few years old now, great camera, however.
 

tboy

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Yeah I could be wrong, a "normal" lens for a digital camera could in fact be slightly larger. As Moresex said: check with Nikon.

One other thing with digital cameras: it is the quality of the cmos chip (??) how fast and accurately it processes the light etc which determines the final image quality.

Plus don't forget the format the image is saved in, is there compression etc. Also with today's software manipulation of a digital image, you can make it "pop" a lot easier than back in the film/darkroom day. Back then, we had to do it all with colour correction, processing time, manual retouching, printing techniques etc.......now, with a push of a couple of buttons, bing, you're there instead of hours in a darkroom.....
 

alexmst

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I went outside yesterday with my trusty old 1978 Nikon FM with 50mm 1.8 Ai that is 31 years old and looks/works like new and Fuji Reala 100 film and took a great photo of someone that is as good or better quality than any of my digital camera shots. Skill + photogenic subject + good natural lighting are most important I think.

Digital is great for low light, I have and use digital cameras, Nikon D70s among them. I'm not anti-technology. I'm just saying upgrading the camera is not usually the solution - better to upgrade your skills and practice more to find the effects you like. Some pro photographers use 8x10 view cameras and get stunning results. If I had an 8x10 view camera with no skill at using it I wouldn't get stunning results....I'd get better results with my Nikon FM simply because I know how to use it well.
 

Rockslinger

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tboy said:
One other thing with digital cameras: it is the quality of the cmos chip (??) how fast and accurately it processes the light etc which determines the final image quality.

The only thing I know about cameras is "auto" but a Henry's sales associate did give me a bit of a lesson on senors. He said that that there is "pixel mania" but 12 megapixels on the same size senor as 8 megapixels is actually worse because each pixel is smaller and holds much less detail. Go for the 8 MP.
 

tboy

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Rock: the problem with that salesmen is that while the pixels are smaller, that means the image is smoother. Meaning there are more "dots" to make up the image. Just like a printed photograph or billboard. The more dots there are, the image is sharper and more precise.

Just like with HD tvs: a 1080 tv produces a better image than a 720.

for the record: a 1000 MP image is about 1000x smoother and sharper and crisp, than a 12 mp image.....anyone who tells you different doesn't know his ass from a hole in the ground.
 

SlitMan

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DGrohl said:
So in doing a little research, I've found that a 50mm lens is the closest lens you can get that approximates the human eye.

I've used a polarizing filter as well and they're great...

So will a 50mm let me accomplish what I'm looking for?
I don't know what you mean by this but no lens can have the dynamic range of a human eye. Why do you think we have HDR ?

Take an introductory course on photography so you understand what makes a "perfect" exposure. Understanding the relationship between shutterspeed, aperture and iso is the basic cornerstone of great shots. Well .. composition and creativity has to be there too ...

A suggested must read (imo) is "Understanding Exposure" by Bryan Peterson. Check it out.

Depending on what you are trying to accomplish I would not go as far as saying a 50mm lens is all you're looking for. Different lenses serve different purposes: eg you have wide angle lenses 16-35mm lenses for landscape, lenses for portrait work, sports etc.

If thats all you have on hand you just work within its limitations.

With regards to focal lengths, a 50mm lens (say) is based on the 35mm film format. Unless you have a full frame camera your effective focal length is based on the crop factor of that camera. For example, a Canon 30D has a crop factor of 1.6 giving an effective focal length of 80mm which means its a tighter shot. Crop factors range from 1.3, 1.5 and 1.6 generally.

If you want great landscape shots and have "tack" sharp images a quality tripod is also a must. If budget allows get a remote trigger and a circular polarizer as well as a gradual neutral density filter. I'm surprised having shot for 15 years spitze only recommends a CP. You will not be able to capture for example a golden sunset without either overexposing the sky if you expose for the foreground or underexpose the foreground if you expose for the sunset !

One piece of advice I would give if you are serious about the hobby .. get the best glass you can afford ! Otherwise you well be forever updating your lenses and it WILL get expensive. I only shoot with L lenses. (Yes I am a Canon user)

Anyway hope this helps.

Here are some links that might help provide more info and improve your skills. More importantly practice practice practice ! Have fun. Great shots don't just come. You may get lucky but a lot of times it takes planning as well as being in the right place at the right time.

www.luminous-landscape.com
www.kenrockwell.com
www.cambridgeincolour.com

slitman
 

smiley1437

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tboy said:
Rock: the problem with that salesmen is that while the pixels are smaller, that means the image is smoother. Meaning there are more "dots" to make up the image. Just like a printed photograph or billboard. The more dots there are, the image is sharper and more precise.

Just like with HD tvs: a 1080 tv produces a better image than a 720.

for the record: a 1000 MP image is about 1000x smoother and sharper and crisp, than a 12 mp image.....anyone who tells you different doesn't know his ass from a hole in the ground.
Believe it or not, that salesman DOES know what he is talking about - smaller photosites (below a certain size) have noise issues because each photosite is capturing fewer photons. This is well documented on photography sites such as dpreview.com.

And besides, beyond a certain point, absolute megapixels is meaningless - if one had a 1000000000 MP sensor, would that be 'better', or would all that data simply be wasted? Engineering-wise, it is important to consider one's final output medium to make a good choice as to how much data you really need to scan off your sensor (and store, and manipulate, etc).

For instance, if we use HDTVs as an example, though anyone can see that 1080 is a bigger number than 720 and thus it is a simple comparison, whether that number is useful to you actually depends greatly on
1. How big your screen is and
2. How far away you sit when you watch it.

For a 50" screen, one would have to sit quite close, at around 6.5 feet away, to fully get the benefits of 1080p. If one sits further at say around 10 feet away or more, one's retina simply doesn't have the cone/rod density to distinguish between 720p and 1080p on a 50" screen. There are many graphs available on the internet to show this relationship between screensize, viewing distance, and resolution, here's one: http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/hitech/1137

Which means that when 2k resolution and 4k resolution sets start becoming common, you'll know that they really aren't necessary unless you have one heck of a huge display, or you like sitting only 2 or 3 feet from your screen.

However, I'm certain there will be lots of people bragging about how they have a 32" screen that is 2k resolution, and yet they sit 10 feet away to watch it.

Similarly, camera sensor designers are caught in what is called the 'megapixel' race, where seemingly the ONLY metric the common consumer focuses on is the number of megapixels... to the detriment of other sensor metrics (such as dynamic range and low noise at high ISO).

In general, anything around 8 to 12 MP should be more than most casual shooters would ever need for cropping and editing, before the small size of the individual photosites causes a lot of noise at high ISOs.

For my money, it is more useful to find good high ISO performance in a DSLR - being able to shoot at high ISOs like 3200, 6400 and higher, with low noise, really helps to take pictures in challenging conditions (indoors, low light, etc). Also, accurate focus in low-light conditions is also very useful - it is quite frustrating to have the focus hunting back and forth. Higher-end cameras have better contrast-detection systems and can focus better in low light but they are $$$.

Anyways, hope this helps SOMEONE out there...so that my hours and hours of reading photography sites isn't completely wasted :)
 

moresex4me

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Other than shooting 100's of shots without wasting money, the single biggest benefit I found to my digital SLR was shooting indoors with no flash, and getting the shot.

This is important when you are in a museum and want to take a picture of a masterpiece, but no flashes allowed. I was able to take some shots in really low-light conditions (tapestries), and the shot was actually brighter than what my naked eye saw. Being able to adjust the ISO shot by shot, instead of roll by roll, HUGE advantage.

As to mega-pixels, they make a huge difference if you're showing your pics on a 50" screen, you can see the difference in quality shot to shot, but I agree it's not just mega pixels, it's everything else as well.
 

tboy

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NO smiley, you haven't wasted your time and I agree, there is a point where more isn't necessarily better. I also agree that the MP "selling point" isn't all it's cracked up to be. For the most casual of users, 4 or 6 would be ample.

BUT there is a point where the resolution of the captured image IS important. For eg: you have a short focal length lens, take a shot, and want only a small portion of the captured image. A lower res camera would not allow you to blow up or zoom in on only the desired portion.

Yes, noise and ability to capture an image at higher ISO settings is good to have, if you're looking for those "less than normal" shots (taking fast moving objects in low light). But the vast majority of DSLR owners simply use it on auto, and take snapshots. In this case, a reasonable P & S camera would have done them just fine.

I went to Henry's the week after Christmas (at least I think it was Henry's) and they had an astounding amount of DSLR returns. It seems that many wanted this type of camera for Christmas but once they saw the 2000 page manual, and how complicated they are, they said uh uh, no thanks.

I also agree with you on the distance/size issue with flat screens etc. I have and always will sit at the 180 deg. peripheral site scale (where if you look at the centre of the screen you should see the edges of the screen at the edges of your vision. I find it so funny how people buy HUGE screens and sit 15' away. Whenever I see this I say: why didn't you just save your money, buy a smaller screen and sit closer? Or buy a better smaller screen.

I will say this however: I am partially colour blind so the accuracy of a screen to produce colour isn't as important to me as the resolution and the refresh rates etc. At a distance, I can actually tell you 9 times out of 10 the resolution of many flat panel monitors. When I bought my 42" panni 1080P plasma, I went out to try and save some money by looking at 720 monitors and even when compared to the Kiro, I preferred 1080.

Same as when I was processing my own colour film/prints. I had the most trouble with the colour correcting (due to my colour blindness) but I had NO problem focusing using the grains in the negs, adjusting sharpness, contrast, etc.

I remember a buddy was all hot to have me over to watch his new lcd projector and 84" screen. He was all horned up playing an Eagles DVD. isn't that awesome he said? I said, well, it's nice and big, but frankly it's like watching tv through a screen door. I could see every fricken pixel and he honestly couldn't. Even when I went with a laser pointer and started outlining each pixel he still couldn't see it.

But with all that being said, in the real world, unless you're going for print photography or catalogue work, the amount of noise, etc that can occur is irrelevant. As well as needing a 12 or more MP camera.

As for that salesman: sure, each pixel holds less information but there are more pixels so the amount of information is the same. The added benefit is the amount of pixels that make up the image. The more pixels = a smoother image. No ifs ands or buts......
 

Rockslinger

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FLASH photography. Why are so many pics using flash overexposed or underexposed? Isn't the camera smart enough to judge the right amount of flash needed to get a good pic every time?

Which is easier to correct afterwards? Overexposure (too much flash) or underexposure (too little flash)?
 

moresex4me

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ihunter said:
Practice appeture/shutter speed bracketing and as moresexforme said ISO manipulation work as well.

Filters can work but try to use camera functions first.

I one took a BW film photo inside a deserted machine factory with very little light. A 2 min shutter made it look clear as day.

Digi is great... instant feedback but I'll take Canon F1 anyday. Still take both on a shoot.

Practice, Practice, Practice
Higher end digital SLR's, and many smaller point & shoots, allow you to set aperture or shutter speed, and the camera decides the other one. Play with aperture to change your depth of field, and shutter speed to capture movement, or as iHunter said make up for a low light situation (he forgot to mention the tripod on a solid surface with no movement at all).

Best bet, go to Henry's and take the course for your camera. Yes, they have camera specific courses. I took one when I got my Canon 20D, and was disappointed with how much time was spent explaining what an F-stop was, amongst other basics, versus how to manage the camera itself, but I still got what I wanted out of it.

Anyway, shoot lots, shoot often. That's what the pro's do. You just don't see the 1000's of shots they rejected to show you that one perfect one.
 
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