For the temperature range you quoted, and the operating pressure range of a typical tire, air is considered to be an ideal gas mixture. That is coming from a chemical process engineer with many years of experience.
tire rotation is a rip off....
- Thread starter icespot
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Oh I know. I don't take it there for that but for minor stuff like tire repair when I got a nail stuck in it. Or even just to do a top up or change out the air in the tires.
Air and nitrogen fills are free so while in the area - why not?
Btw tired do wear at different rates so it's not a complete rip off as long as you're not paying 100 bucks to get it done.
If.for example you have a front wheel drive car the front tires will wear out faster on the front then the back. That's why you rotate them to even out the wear.
Your car comes with a jack and an extra one is 50 bucks at princess auto. 20 minutes and you can rotate it yourself.
I like the other poster have winter tires so rotate every half a year and it works great. No additional work, just mark where the tires came off and next time you install you flip em.
If.for example you have a front wheel drive car the front tires will wear out faster on the front then the back. That's why you rotate them to even out the wear.
Your car comes with a jack and an extra one is 50 bucks at princess auto. 20 minutes and you can rotate it yourself.
I like the other poster have winter tires so rotate every half a year and it works great. No additional work, just mark where the tires came off and next time you install you flip em.
I do all the service at home (I even fix my own flats). I have jacks and a ramp, tire rotation is useful and I do it every 20k km on my cars except for one which has staggered sizes front/rear.
Fuck all Dealers and Canadian Tire, they are the biggest scammers and would try to make a quick buck from their mom if they could.
Fuck all Dealers and Canadian Tire, they are the biggest scammers and would try to make a quick buck from their mom if they could.
^Plugging a tire from the outside is not a long-term fix. To repair a puncture properly, the tire needs to be dismounted and patched from the inside. At most shops this costs less than $40.
If you have a Hunter tire machine at home... well :yo:
If you have a Hunter tire machine at home... well :yo:
I agree with this one, the plug didn't last and was coming out. When I had it patched from the inside I never had a problem since. But I also have had plugs that lasted forever.
Thanks for fixing my post, I was thinking about this after a long day followed up by two beers as I as was taking a leek.
I had a plug without a patch last for 8 years on a snow tire. Running a solid year on my truck. Fixed my neighbour's car as well and he's doing fine.
The last car I bought they tried to sell me the 'Environmental' package that also has Nitrogen in the tires.
After I stopped laughing ,I said uh no thanks.
But it's already in your car you're buying.
I told them to get me a car without it and subtract the added fee & they relented.
Nice try though
Yep, exactly what I do.
I have separate winter rims, so the tires never need to be re-mounted or re-balanced. Hell, a re-balancing is rarely needed unless tires are being swapped on the same rim or you hit something hard enough to change the geometry of the rim.
As a matter of fact, rotating your tires is (or can be) dangerous.
Here's why. After a period of service, the left front tire has bedded itself into the particular suspension alignment foibles of your left front suspension/wheel. If you now put the left front tire on the right, now, that tire does not "sit properly" on the road, and it remains so until it beds in and wears itself in to the foibles of the right front wheel.
Once the tire is bedded in, its contact patch will be more or less in the middle of where the suspension engineers designed it to be. But during the bedding-in period, the contact patch can be displaced as much as an inch to the side of where it was designed to be. (Of course, you get no sign that this is happening.)
If you now have a problem (e.g a slippery road) the chances of the car skidding into a spin are considerably increased.
So, never rotate your tires. If your left and right fronts wear at different rates, don't swap the tires over -- get your alignment checked. If you do swap, you'll be more likely (for a few weeks) to skid on a slippery road.
Another benefit of not rotating your tires (i.e not rotating them front to rear) is that, on most cars, the fronts wear faster than the rears. So you just buy one pair of new tires.
Of course, as everyone knows, if you just buy one pair of new tires, you put them on the back. Whatever your make and model of car, you always put your new pair of tires on the back.
Buying just one pair of new tires (and putting them on the back) evens out the dollar expenditure on new tires over the years, plus it helps ensure that, if you get into tire-skid conditions, it's the fronts that break free first, not the rears. A rear-wheel skid (where the rears break free first) is ten times more likely to put you in the path of the oncoming truck than a front-wheel skid.
Here's why. After a period of service, the left front tire has bedded itself into the particular suspension alignment foibles of your left front suspension/wheel. If you now put the left front tire on the right, now, that tire does not "sit properly" on the road, and it remains so until it beds in and wears itself in to the foibles of the right front wheel.
Once the tire is bedded in, its contact patch will be more or less in the middle of where the suspension engineers designed it to be. But during the bedding-in period, the contact patch can be displaced as much as an inch to the side of where it was designed to be. (Of course, you get no sign that this is happening.)
If you now have a problem (e.g a slippery road) the chances of the car skidding into a spin are considerably increased.
So, never rotate your tires. If your left and right fronts wear at different rates, don't swap the tires over -- get your alignment checked. If you do swap, you'll be more likely (for a few weeks) to skid on a slippery road.
Another benefit of not rotating your tires (i.e not rotating them front to rear) is that, on most cars, the fronts wear faster than the rears. So you just buy one pair of new tires.
Of course, as everyone knows, if you just buy one pair of new tires, you put them on the back. Whatever your make and model of car, you always put your new pair of tires on the back.
Buying just one pair of new tires (and putting them on the back) evens out the dollar expenditure on new tires over the years, plus it helps ensure that, if you get into tire-skid conditions, it's the fronts that break free first, not the rears. A rear-wheel skid (where the rears break free first) is ten times more likely to put you in the path of the oncoming truck than a front-wheel skid.
Knock yourself out.
Cleaning won't do fuck all for pedal feel. The pistons in disk brakes travel out of the bores of the calipers as the pad wears. The pistons don't reset once you take your foot of the pedal. That's the beauty of disk brakes, they don't need (ever) to be adjusted. The caliper pistons only move in one direction. Out.
You can grease the slider pins if you like (if you have the single piston variety calipers, or all the pistons are on one face of the caliper, but that won't make any difference to pedal feel either. (This is what the garages actually sell is the cleaning and lubricating of the pins, however, doing this with every brake job is more than sufficient. And if you have 2 opposed pistons (or 4 piston) calipers. There are no pins. Just bolts. The 2 piston variety caliper has a piston on the back face and the front face, so no sliding action of the caliper.
As to the squeal that you sometimes hear, well, that is either because the pad is down to the metal tabs that rub on the rotors to tell you that the pads need to be changed, or a bit of rust after you've not driven the car in while, or sometimes, the pads will resonate when they are in the calipers. Most often, you'll see shim kits behind the pads to eliminate this problem.
But if it makes you feel better, go ahead.
But to pay for it, it's a swindle. (If the mechanic even does the work I'd be amazed.)
Interesting advice. Can others confirm? I always thought rotating tires was highly recommended.
I lied. They are actually $0.5 a set on AliExpress, mailed from China: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hig...otective-Film-Vinyl-Stickers/32789658343.html
Or you can buy them for $5 a set on eBay, mailed from BC: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Universal-I...Protective-Film-BUY-2-GET-1-FREE/132081824798
This may have been true prior to the 1970s, when the majority of car tires sold in North America were bias-ply...
Rotating your tires is very highly recommended -- by the people who charge to rotate them.
